Home
Winter is tough on you and your bike so here are our tips for making it smoothly through to spring

Winter is a testing time not only for your motivation but for
your bike and equipment too. Bicycles really don't like all the water,
grit and gunk that comes their way during the winter, but you can help
out by using the best equipment and following a simple maintenance
routine. Get things right and you'll be riding smoothly and safely
through until spring.

Mudguards

Okay, so they’re not the most stylish or, dare we say it, fashionable
thing you can stick on a bicycle but if you want to stay dry then keeping
the surface water off your butt and lower legs/feet will make a huge
difference to your comfort and enjoyment. What 'guards you fit depends on
your bike.

If you have mounts and have the space and clearance you could fit
traditional full-length mudguards like SKS Chromoplastics. If your frame
doesn't have mounts, don't worry, there are lots of mudguards that will
clip on to any bike, like Crud’s Race Guards.

SKS
Chromoplastic — £24.99 - £32.00

The SKS Chromoplastic mudguards are one of the best known, and very
highly regarded, full-length options. They’re made by sandwiching
aluminium strips inside a plastic housing. The resulting profile is quite
deep which makes it stiff and sturdy. Stainless steel stays fix them in
place and the Secu-Clips on the front means they pop out of the mount if
somehting gets caught between the mudguard and tyre, rather than locking
the wheel and putting you on your face. You get a generous mudflap on the
front mudguard and a reflector on the rear. They’re available in several
sizes to fit around tyres from 20 to 45mm wide.

Read
our review of SKS Chromoplastic mudguards

Find an SKS
dealer

Crud
Roadracer Mk 3 — £27.44

crud-roadracer-mk3-6 crop.jpg

The other popular option is the Crud Roadracer. As long as you've got 4mm
between the top of your tyre and the inside of your brake caliper, the
Roadracers will slide in.

You don't need mudguard eyelets. Roadracers attach to the frame with
Duotech 'Interloc' strips, which are a bit like industrial strength
Velcro. That makes the Roadracers incredibly light at just 262g for the
pair.

The weight is saved because Roadracers do not use the four stiff metal
stays used on conventional mudguards to keep the guards from touching the
wheel or tyre. Instead, the Roadracers have four flexible plastic stays
and are designed to 'float' above the tyre, with some little strips of
soft brushing on the inside of the stay-clip to rub very gently on the
rims and keep the guards central.

The all-plastic construction means Roadracers are more fragile than
chromoplastic guards, an issue for some riders.

Read
our review of the Crud Roadracer Mk 3 mudguards

Find a Crud
Products dealer

Our Buyer's
Guide to Mudguards
goes into great detail on the pros
and cons of the different mudguards available, and will help you choose
the right one for your bike.

Winter tyres

Punctures are easily the most annoying thing about cycling through the
winter. They're more common during the winter, because the rain washes
more sharp flints and pieces of glass on to the road and water also acts
as an annoyingly good lubricant for sharp objects to slice through a tyre.

Look for a tyre with a thick reinforced breaker belt sandwiched between
the rubber tread and carcass. This will help prevent flints and glass from
puncturing the delicate inner tube.

Tyre pressure is important, and especially so in the winter when the
roads are most likely to be wet. As a general rule, the wetter it is, the
lower the pressure you want to run your tyres at. While it might be fine
to ride tyres inflated to 120psi during the summer when the roads are dry,
it's a good idea to go a little lower the wetter it is. It's not unknown
to go as low as 80-90psi.

Schwalbe
Marathon Plus — £23.99-£27.99

Schwalbe-Marathon-Plus-Smartguard-Rigid-Road-Tyre-Hybrid-and-Touring-Tyres-Black-Reflex.jpg

Schwalbe Marathon Plus tyres are essentially heavy duty, ultra reliable
commu-touring tyres that inspire unprecedented confidence without feeling
sluggish or barge-like, despite their 970g/pr weight.

Read
our review of the Schwalbe Marathon Plus tyres

Continental
Grand Prix 4 Season — £34.99

Continental GP 4 season cutaway.jpg

A lighter option is the Continental Grand Prix 4 Season. A tough Duraskin
mesh and two Vectran anti-puncture layers beneath the tread make this a
good choice. And at 220g it's a good weight, for the rider wanting a fast
winter tyre. Conti's max grip silica rubber compound provides a good level
of grip. A good choice for winter and one that can be used in spring and
autumn too. If you want even more protection, the
Continental Gator Hardshell
(see
review
) is a good option, with a third layer of Polyamide in the
sidewalls.

Here’s
our pick of the best winter tyres and what to look for, plus 10 of the
best

Saddle pack with maintenance essentials

That last thing you want to do on a ride is to have a mechanical and not
be able to sort it out. We always make sure we have a saddle bag packed
with at least one spare tube, a few patches, tyre levers if the tyres
demand it, and a quality multi-tool with a chain breaker. We carry a quick
link or chain pin and tyre boot as well. Those are the essentials and
should see you able to fix most roadside mechanicals.

By putting everything in a saddle pack you can simply leave it on the
bike for the whole winter and it will always be there if and when you need
it, and it beats stuffing your pockets, saving them for really important
stuff like food and money for a coffee/cake/pint.

Pump

A good pump is a necessity at any time of the year, but winter is really
not the time to skimp on your pump; invest in a high quality model. I once
punctured 40 miles away from home, it was raining hard, and the mini pump
I was testing completely failed me. A tiny pump may be attractive because
it's light and doesn't take up much space in a jacket pocket, but they're
not always much cop when it comes to quickly inflating a tyre to a decent
pressure. If you're riding in company its also unfair to keep everyone
waiting and getting cold while you struggle with an inadequate pump.

There are lots of very good mini pumps these days. Personally I think a
traditional frame pump is best. Yes, it's heavier, but you can inflate a
tyre to 85-100 psi every single time, and quickly too. If you can’t manage
a frame pump, at least ensure you’ve invested in a high-quality pump that
you’ve tested properly before hitting the road, or carry a CO2 cartridge
inflator.

Birzman
Velocity Apogee mini pump — £22.99 - £24.99

Birzman Velocity Apogee mini pump

The Birzman Velocity Apogee is a crackingly good all-round pump for both
road and mountain bike use - with the usual caveats about maximum pressure
and comfort of grip. The Velocity Apogee shines as a no-faff,
solidly-connected, accurately-gauged, flexible-hose pump that will work
for road, mountain bike or suspension fork use, but like any mini-pump it
takes a while to get to 100psi and it's extremely hard to get beyond that.

Read
our review of the Birzman Velocity Apogee

Find a Birzman dealer

Zefal
HPX — £19.99

Legendary US bike shop Rivendell
Cycles
calls the HPX "the biggest commercial mainstream normal
zero-snobbeury bicycle success that has ever come out of France" and we
can't argue with that. The narrow barrel makes high pressures easy, the
thumblock grabs the valve firmly and the switchable sprung handle means no
wasted effort.

The design's been around since the early 1970s. HPXes are tough and
durable enough that we wouldn't be surprised if there are still a few of
the first batch in use.

Find
a Zefal dealer

Genuine
Innovations Proflate 16 — £17

Genuine Innovations Proflate.jpg

The Genuine Innovations Proflate 16 may not look the smartest, but it's a
very cleverly designed CO2 pump that instills trust and makes you feel in
control. It uses 16g non threaded cartridges (which are slightly cheaper
than their threaded equivalents) and works on both Schrader and Presta
valves.

The Proflate 16 has a host of really well designed features: it
auto-detects Schrader or Presta valve; it's got a little indicator that
tells you if the cartridge is punctured and the pump is therefore charged;
it's got a trigger, protected by a security catch; you can store
cartridges upside down in the body avoiding the risk of accidental
puncturing; you can't accidentally unscrew the body with a
charged/punctured cartridge; and it's got an automatic dirt/water shield.

Read
our review of the Genuine Innovations Proflate 16

Find a Genuine
Innovations dealer

See
our guide to the best cycling tyre pumps and CO2 inflators

Lights

Even if you’re not planning to ride in the dark, it can be very gloomy on
some grey, overcast days, so we’d recommend always riding with a set of
lights. Even if they’re small single LED blinker lights, you have the
reassurance of being able to put them on if it doesn’t turn out to be the
blue sky day you'd hoped for.

And sometimes, even with the best intentions, you might find yourself
racing to get home before the sun sets and not quite succeeding. We’ve all
been there and know what it’s like. It's best to play safe and get some
lights on your bike throughout the winter.

Here are a few of our current favourites.

Moon
Alcor — £11.95

Moon Alcor.jpg

Here's a great little rear light that you will find very useful. The Moon
Alcor is simple, bright and has a nifty magnetic mount. It has five modes,
including a flash that's bright enough to use as a daytime running light,
and steady modes that are plenty bright enough for general use. It
recharges by plugging straight into a USB port so you don't have to find a
cable.

Read
our review of the Moon Alcor

Find a Moon dealer

Moon
Arcturus Auto — £21.50

Moon Arcturus Auto rear light.jpg

The Moon Arcturus Auto is a super little rear light for commuting and
general riding. It's useful for a variety of scenarios, with seven modes
in total – two main modes each with three sub-settings, plus a daytime
mode for added safety. The single button is perfect for on-the-move
adjustment.

We tested the Arcturus Auto on an unlit commuting run that includes a mix
of A roads and narrow country lanes. The Moon's 35-lumen modes are easily
bright enough for pitch black riding, while the extra-bright 70-lumen
double flash is great for daytime. This is enhanced by the Auto Mode
(hence the name), which switches the light on when it senses very low
light. This came in really handy when going from sunshine into heavy tree
cover, giving that bit of extra safety against drivers adjusting to the
light change.

An extra couple of quid gets you the
Moon Arcturus Auto Pro
, with a 100-lumen daylight mode
but shorter run time.

Read
our review of the Moon Arcturus Auto

Find a Moon dealer

Be sure to check out our rear
light buyer's guide

Front lights: Guide
to the best front lights for cycling + beam comparison engine
.

Moon
Meteor C3 — £20.99

Moon Meteor.jpg

The Moon Meteor C3 is a compact, eight-mode front light capable of
delivering 300 lumens in constant and an equally impressive 400-lumen
daylight flash. Build quality is superb throughout. The diminutive
dimensions, comprehensive mounting options and generally usable run-times
ensure it can play a wealth of roles, from a single commuter light to
support act for a powerful main system.

Read
our review of the Moon Meteor C3

Find a Moon dealer

Magicshine
MJ-858 front light — £65.99

Magicshine MJ-858 fornt light

The Magicshine MJ-858 is a tiny gem of cast, black anodised aluminium
with a small light aperture and base that pumps out 1,000 lumens. It runs
for 3.5 hours on full brightness with its 4.4Ah battery, and you can
easily extend this by reducing the output. However if run time is
paramount to your requirements, then just upgrade to the bigger 6.6Ah
battery to get well over five hours of bright, well-distributed beam on
full power.

Read
our review of the Magicshine MJ-858 front light

Regular cleaning

I finished a ride the other day and actually had a tidemark along the
down tube. There was even a bit of driftwood in the muck. Yes, riding
through the winter clearly places a lot of stress on all the moving
components so you’ll need to embrace a regular cleaning and servicing
schedule.

Winterise your bike - crank

Ideally ,you should give your bike a very thorough clean straight after a
mucky ride to prevent rust setting in. A bucket, some soapy water and a
sponge/brush will do for a basic clean. There are plenty of specialised
cleaning products on the market that will make cleaning your bike easier.

Keep it lubed

Even if you don’t wash your bike regularly, you’re going to need to keep
the drivetrain will lubed. Hear that squeaky chain? That’s not a good
sound; you don’t want to be hearing it.

Buy a good-quality bicycle lube and use it, this isn't the time to skimp.
Wet lubes are good because they last ages, but can attract muck and grit
to the chain and need more thorough cleaning. Dry lubes might not seem the
obvious choice in the winter but a good one can work well and has the
benefit of keeping your chain clean. On the down side, it does need much
more regular application and can be more fussy to apply in the first
place.

Carbon Pro Heavy Duty lube — £12.31

Carbon Pro Heavy Duty Lube

Carbon Pro Heavy Duty Lube is very clean-running for a truly hell'n'high
water lubricant. It laughs at thunderstorms, river crossings and similar
antics. Most surprising of all, it doesn't impair the feel of sportier
groupsets.

Read
our review of Carbon Pro Heavy Duty lube

Green Oil chain lube —
£6.99

Green Oil Wet Chain Lube.jpg

Green Oil proudly boasts that it contains no environmentally harmful
chemicals, such as PTFE, and no palm oil, which is implicated in the
destruction of rainforest. What it actually does contain is a secret.
Green Oil only admit to "naturally occurring plant extracts" and no animal
derivatives. But this is all detail; what matters is that it works really
well, whether you care about its green credentials or not.

Read our
review of Green Oil chain lube

Check that chain

If you’re riding a load of miles in the winter, it’s good to keep an eye
on the chain wear. A chain will slowly stretch over time as the components
wear out.

A chain checker tool is reasonably cheap and could save you a lot of
money in the long run. If you leave a chain to wear unchecked, the chain
rings, cassette and jockey wheels will wear out and and eventually you’ll
have to replace the whole transmission. Costly!

Park
Tool Chain Checker CC2 — £16

Park Tool Chain Checker.jpeg

Park Tool's Chain Checker lets you monitor the condition of your chain so
you can decide for yourself just how cautious you want to be about the
effect of its wear on the rest of your drivetrain.

/sites/default/files/cropped/galleria_1200/images/Products/KMC%20X11L%20Gold%2011-Speed%20Chain.jpg

Alternatively, if you change the chain regularly, you can extend the life
of the transmission hugely. Some people will fit a new chain every three
months if they’re do lots of miles. A new chain - and it doesn’t need to
be a posh one - is a small price to pay compared to a Dura-Ace cassette,
for example.

Inspect tyres and brake blocks regularly

The brake blocks (or pads) will take a beating through the winter and
wear out much faster. Every time you wash your bike, pay particular
attention to the blocks and replace them before they get too worn. It’s
also worth checking the tyres for holes, cuts, gashes and flint/glass
lodged in the tyre.

Kool
Stop Dura 2 Dual Compound brake blocks — £8.99

Kool-stop Dura Dual.jpg

Kool Stop Dura 2s are aftermarket upgrade brake blocks with the dual
compound providing good braking performance in a range of conditions and
decent longevity too.

Read
our review of the Kool Stop Dura 2 Dual Compound brake blocks

Find a Kool
Stop dealer

Follow this guide and you should sail through the autumn and
winter months quite happily. If you've got any of your own tips, feel
free to add them below.

About road.cc Buyer's Guides

The aim of road.cc buyer's guides is to give you the most, authoritative, objective and up-to-date buying advice. We continuously update and republish our guides, checking prices, availability and looking for the best deals.

Our guides include links to websites where you can buy the featured products. Like most sites we make a small amount of money if you buy something after clicking on one of those links. We want you to be happy with what you buy, so we only include a product in a if we think it's one of the best of its kind.

As far as possible that means recommending equipment that we have actually reviewed, but we also include products that are popular, highly-regarded benchmarks in their categories.

Here's some more information on how road.cc makes money.

You can also find further guides on our sister sites off.road.cc and ebiketips.

Road.cc buyer's guides are maintained and updated by John Stevenson. Email John with comments, corrections or queries.

David has worked on the road.cc tech team since July 2012. Previously he was editor of Bikemagic.com and before that staff writer at RCUK. He's a seasoned cyclist of all disciplines, from road to mountain biking, touring to cyclo-cross, he only wishes he had time to ride them all. He's mildly competitive, though he'll never admit it, and is a frequent road racer but is too lazy to do really well. He currently resides in the Cotswolds.

33 comments

Avatar
DanielCoffey [18 posts] 2 years ago
11 likes

Another essential to add to your seat pack is a few pairs of those blue nitrile gloves.

They squash down to nothing and will keep that stinky, oily chain crud off your hands. They do tear, so a few pairs is sensible.

While you can buy them at Pharmacies for a few quid for a small pack, a lot of Carer Supplies places do them in boxes of 100 for about six quid.

Avatar
Roberj4 [227 posts] 2 years ago
3 likes

Highly recommend the Cool Stop pads, I've been using these for years on my winter bike.

Avatar
hennie [31 posts] 2 years ago
0 likes
Roberj4 wrote:

Highly recommend the Cool Stop pads, I've been using these for years on my winter bike.

 

I agree, last time I swapped from these back to stock Shimano ones and couldn't believe how bad they were in comparison. Only use Cool Stop now. The salmon coloured ones I find best for winter

Avatar
tritecommentbot [2266 posts] 2 years ago
0 likes
Roberj4 wrote:

Highly recommend the Cool Stop pads, I've been using these for years on my winter bike.

 

Are they these?

 

http://www.wiggle.co.uk/kool-stop-dura-aceultegra105-pair-of-cartridge-i...

 

I have 105 pads on my winter bike but am far from impressed from how they were in the rain the other day. Don't fancy doing all winter in them..

Avatar
Jack Osbourne snr [724 posts] 2 years ago
0 likes

Been using Kool Stop pads for many year and in my personal experience:

The black ones aren't great in the wet and work the same as most pads in the dry.

The two tone jobs are okay in the wet, but not earth shatteringly so.

The salmon ones are very good in the wet but will not last a Scottish winter. ie pissing down day after day after day after day after day after... They wear very quickly.

Avatar
pagik [17 posts] 2 years ago
0 likes

All of the above and I highly recommend 3 letters and 2 numbers. ACF 50.

Avatar
Woldsman [290 posts] 2 years ago
3 likes

Those mudguards look frightfully short. You know what to do, right? 

http://eastyorkshirectc.org.uk/flaps

 

 

 

Avatar
Disfunctional_T... [340 posts] 2 years ago
0 likes

I recommend Fluid Film for corrosion protection. It's non-toxic.

Avatar
robertoegg [117 posts] 2 years ago
3 likes

I recommend a fixed gear for less moving parts to clean  1 Just put decent blocks on the front! Oh, and you can do skidz in the wet a lot easier - I look well cool.

Avatar
StraelGuy [1614 posts] 2 years ago
1 like

Best things for winterising any bike with rim brakes are Swissstop green pads. They're bloody expensive but they're seriously good!

Avatar
StraelGuy [1614 posts] 2 years ago
1 like

Best things for winterising any bike with rim brakes are Swissstop green pads. They're bloody expensive but they're seriously good!

Avatar
Rapha Nadal [963 posts] 2 years ago
1 like

guyrwood wrote:

Best things for winterising any bike with rim brakes are Swissstop green pads. They're bloody expensive but they're seriously good!

I popped some of these on last winter based upon numerous comments like this.  Wish I hadn't!  Worst brake blocks I've ever had.

Avatar
BikeBud [261 posts] 2 years ago
1 like

Best things for winterising any bike with rim brakes are Swissstop green pads. They're bloody expensive but they're seriously good!

Avatar
Morat [320 posts] 2 years ago
0 likes

Has noone mentioned disks brakes yet?

Probably just as well....

A hearty +1 for the rubber gloves. As the guy who seems to end up fixing other peoples bikes on  group rides it's not the messing around with tools that annoys me, it's the grease and cack on my gloves/bartape. You can get big boxes of gloves for mechanics from auto-factors and the like for not much money. I have some stashed in each saddle bag.

Avatar
Harmanhead [64 posts] 2 years ago
1 like

 Yeah winterproof your bike

 

 buy more stuff... stuff you should already have!

it doesn't just rain in the winter ya know

Avatar
ktache [1042 posts] 2 years ago
0 likes
Rapha Nadal wrote:

guyrwood wrote:

Best things for winterising any bike with rim brakes are Swissstop green pads. They're bloody expensive but they're seriously good!

I popped some of these on last winter based upon numerous comments like this.  Wish I hadn't!  Worst brake blocks I've ever had.

Rapha, in a friendly questioningly manner, what didn't you like about them?

I like my swisstop greens.  Moved from stock shimano to ritchy reds, rebadged Kool-stop I think, wish I'd tried the salmons.  The greens give so much more oomf to my cantilevers, especially in the wet, don't seem to have excessive rim wear and the greens don't last too long , but I expect that for the extra stopping power.  I've read many good comments about them and a few people absolutely hate them and I don't know why.  Love to know?

Trying their blues on my ceramic rims, there is not  such a huge difference to the stock shimano ceramic blocks.  I was hoping they weren't going to leave the glassy deposit, on my new front rim but it is now starting, grrr.  Ceramic rims in the wet are superb, carbide now I suppose.  And they don't seem to ice up like my ali braking surfaces can.  Very scary that.

When it starts to get frosty I move onto my Continental winter contact tyres on my getting to work bike, just gives that little bit more confidence on that crusty white stuff, especially on the corners.  I've got the ones with "sharp rubber", the newer IIs use block design, don't know how well they work but I'm guessing they do.  Full Spike Claw on the good bike for full on snow and ice.  Very heavy and expensive,  and I may only use them for a couple of weeks a year and not at all in the past 3 winters,  but they stop the painful and expensive dissapearing front wheel.  It is exhilarating zooming around like a crazy man on snow. slush and ice, have to slow down a fair bit on the clear tarmac though.  I kind of want a bit of snow this year, sorry.

Avatar
Rapha Nadal [963 posts] 2 years ago
0 likes

I just find that they lack real stopping power and that I need to really haul on the levers to get any bite out of them.  I run Campag Chorus on my winter bike so I know it's not the brakes themselves. They feel nice though, on account of the compund, but that's where it ends for me!  Might give something else a go this year.

Avatar
urbane [100 posts] 2 years ago
1 like

I have a Park Tool Chain Checker CC2 but haven't found it that reliable.

Best keep a spare cassette with your spare chain because a just little too much wear on a chain will wear the cassette and make a new chain unusable!  It can help if you own a large (car) torque wrench, square wrench compatible cassette tool and the brilliant http://www.decathlon.co.uk/chain-whip-cassette-remover-id_8309913.html so that you can easily replace a cassette much faster with the correct torque than too short handle chain tools and nasty traditional chain whips,  also a chain slack tool/wire and chain link pliers can save time with removing/fitting a new chain.  A currently prefer KMC chains over both Shimano and SRAM ones.

Lube your cables when you fit them, any time of the year, to prevent water ingress/condensation otherwise they can rust or freeze below zero, and grease derailer pivots before they get damp before freezing temperature!

Even Kelvar band tires can get slashed by glass or punctured by thorns, so Slime filled inner tubes and spare inner tubes can save a lot of time not fixing punctures and less time pumping up leaky tires.  If you use Slime, never store the bicycle near a hot heat source like a radiator because it can solidify and choke an inner tube and valve, as a friend discovered the hard way!  If you use car valves, pressure gauge valve caps are dirt cheap on ebay.

I have always hated frame pumps, and those with a fixed head on the piston will be harder on you and the air valve.  For outside I have a compact Topeak Turbo Morph G, it's a combi hand and mini track pump, with a locking & fold out hand grip, a mini fold out pressure guage, a metal piston shaft,  a decent length attached air pipe with a locking head and a fold out foot rest.   At home I regard a decent track pump with a pressure guage as compulsory.

Avatar
gunswick [132 posts] 2 years ago
0 likes

Tubeless road tyres (Schwalbe s-one) so run at 50psi for grip and comfort and more speed than you would think...

Blue nitrile gloves are a year round good idea. Amazon has 100 size boxes for £5. These are better than latex gloves as they do not rip so easily, I use bodyworx ones.

Disc brakes.

Rock-n-roll gold lube. Clean semi-wet lube that doesn't wash off in rain, but doesn't attract grit ( though will go a little black). To refresh / clean, just add more lube, cycle it round and let it soak in, then just wipe off with kitchen towel until black stuff stops coming off. Do this once every week (or 150 miles).

Avatar
Danger Dicko [287 posts] 2 years ago
0 likes

I'll be winterising my alu Ridley over the next week or so.

The forecast for this coming weekend still looks dry so I may get at least one more ride in on the Genesis.

This guide has been extremely helpful. Thanks.

Avatar
Weetobix [3 posts] 2 years ago
0 likes

I'm glad I'm not the only one who uses dry lube all year round. Can't stand a sticky chain!

Avatar
matthewn5 [1267 posts] 2 years ago
0 likes
Rapha Nadal wrote:

I just find that they lack real stopping power and that I need to really haul on the levers to get any bite out of them.  I run Campag Chorus on my winter bike so I know it's not the brakes themselves. They feel nice though, on account of the compund, but that's where it ends for me!  Might give something else a go this year.

Keep your rims clean - vinegar is good - and use nail file to freshen up the pads. They'll need to bed in again, but then I find them brilliant on my Campag setup.

 

Another tip: a bit of vaseline around the outermost hub bearing seals helps keep water out, too. Just smear lightly on the outside all round.

Avatar
huntswheelers [165 posts] 2 years ago
0 likes

Good tips..... I do some customer winter bikes and I do also get them in for monthly deep clean wash downs and re -protect....  Pads... yer pays yer money and all that but I'm another for Kool Stop Salmon's and I also use a small modelling paint brush to apply grease to the mech screws and around the pivots of rear mechs...coating them with a protection from ingress of nasty salt "wash".... XCP do a rust protector which is useful on steel bikes and parts...and also make sure you are on Stainless Steel cables  3 .... When I wash I use an airline to dry the bikes out and also coat the frames with a waterless wash & wax for extra protection...with the stuff I use, it has carnuba wax and then the bikes are easier to clean next time... Chain Lube...I asked customers their preference...I have some fussy ones... if not I use Atlantic Oelzeuch which I buy in from Germany... One final thing.... protect your machine and you can't beat the road for me...much better than the Turbo trainer

Avatar
stephen connor [56 posts] 1 year ago
0 likes
huntswheelers wrote:

When I wash I use an airline to dry the bikes out and also coat the frames with a waterless wash & wax for extra protection...with the stuff I use, it has carnuba wax and then the bikes are easier to clean next time... Chain Lube...I asked customers their preference...I have some fussy ones... 

 

+1 for Carnuba wax. I use car wax on on both of my bikes summer and winter. The trick is not to use washing up liquid (dish soap) on the frame once you've waxed it. Washing up liquid will strip car wax off your bike. So use a light car shampoo for weekly (post spin) washes and then once a month or so use washing up liquid to strip the wax right down. Make sure you rinse the bike well after using washing up liquid as there's ingredients in it that shouldn't be left on the bike. Once the washing up liquid is rinsed re-apply the wax. You'll know when you got good wax protection as the water will bead straight off the bike. Another washing tip, is clean your bike asap when finished spin as it gives little time for the crud to dry/harden on the frame. 

 

On chain lube, I found motrcycle chain lube brillant in the crappy winter conditions. The only downside is, it's not the easiest to clean/degrease your chain when using it. You'll have to to use strong degreasers. I've been using chainsaw oil (chainsaw bar) on both my bikes and motorbike recently with good success. It seems to work very well and clings well to chains even are raides in heavy rain and it can be removed easily with washing up liquid. 

 

Avatar
srchar [1135 posts] 1 year ago
0 likes

One tip I can't see up here yet - a coating of marine grease on any and all bearings, cartridge or otherwise. Just don't get it on your hands - it's a pain to wash off (that's the point  1 )

Avatar
hsiaolc [369 posts] 1 year ago
0 likes
srchar wrote:

One tip I can't see up here yet - a coating of marine grease on any and all bearings, cartridge or otherwise. Just don't get it on your hands - it's a pain to wash off (that's the point  1 )

Which one do you use? I used Carplan one and it seems to wash off very easily

Avatar
srchar [1135 posts] 1 year ago
0 likes

I use Liqui Moly 25041.

Avatar
JonD [496 posts] 1 year ago
1 like
stephen connor wrote:
huntswheelers wrote:

When I wash I use an airline to dry the bikes out and also coat the frames with a waterless wash & wax for extra protection...with the stuff I use, it has carnuba wax and then the bikes are easier to clean next time... Chain Lube...I asked customers their preference...I have some fussy ones... 

 

+1 for Carnuba wax. I use car wax on on both of my bikes summer and winter. The trick is not to use washing up liquid (dish soap) on the frame once you've waxed it. Washing up liquid will strip car wax off your bike. So use a light car shampoo for weekly (post spin) washes and then once a month or so use washing up liquid to strip the wax right down. Make sure you rinse the bike well after using washing up liquid as there's ingredients in it that shouldn't be left on the bike. Once the washing up liquid is rinsed re-apply the wax. You'll know when you got good wax protection as the water will bead straight off the bike. Another washing tip, is clean your bike asap when finished spin as it gives little time for the crud to dry/harden on the frame. 

 

On chain lube, I found motrcycle chain lube brillant in the crappy winter conditions. The only downside is, it's not the easiest to clean/degrease your chain when using it. You'll have to to use strong degreasers. I've been using chainsaw oil (chainsaw bar) on both my bikes and motorbike recently with good success. It seems to work very well and clings well to chains even are raides in heavy rain and it can be removed easily with washing up liquid. 

 

 

Haven't ridden a motorcycle in a long time so things may have changed - lubes are mainly to kept the chain o-rings happy (and the grease in), and vary between pretty waxy and pretty horrible and sticky (and a bloody nuisance to clean off the rear wheel etc on even a motorbike, in the latter case).

 

Avatar
Goldfever4 [403 posts] 1 year ago
0 likes

Has anyone tried ACF-50?

Avatar
dottigirl [842 posts] 1 year ago
0 likes
Goldfever4 wrote:

Has anyone tried ACF-50?

I've been contemplating it. Although, I asked a biker friend and he said the Scottoiler FS365 (a salt neutraliser) was better for my kind of bike.

Summarising the reviews/advice posts, it appears the Scottoiler is better for visible parts that you clean regularly and don't want to look filthy - it's water-based so will wash off. The ACF50 is stickier therefore attracts more dirt but is more waterproof and is ideal for inside frames (i.e. protecting steel/alloy frames from internal corrosion).

So, it does depend on what you want it to do.

Pages