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7 of the best inner tubes — find out how to save weight, ride faster and prevent flats

How the simple rubber ring isn't so simple

Inner tubes do quite a lot more than just hold the air in your tyres. The best inner tubes can make your bike faster, lighter or – by preventing punctures – more reliable. Let us help you choose the best inner tubes for your riding needs.

  • Choosing the best inner tubes is a surprisingly cheap way to improve some aspect of your bike's performance, be it speed or reliability

  • If all that matters to you is going fast, the best inner tubes are made from natural latex rubber, but read on: they have downsides

  • Inner tubes with built-in sealant can fix punctures for you as you ride, often before you even know they've happened

  • Every few years a new inner tube technology pops up, usually involving high-strength exotic plastic; we discuss the latest one below

7 of the best inner tubes for 2020

Inner tubes affect the rolling resistance of your tyres, how easily you can end up sidelined with a puncture and the rotating weight of your wheels. If you care about performance — whether you mean by that speed or robustness and reliability — it’s worth thinking about the best inner tubes you could use and not just where you can get 10 for £20.

Rolling resistance

The rolling resistance of tyres comes from the force needed to bend the tyre where it contacts the road. But the inner tube has to bend too, so if it’s thick, then the rolling resistance of the whole combination goes up.

The flexibility of the inner tube material makes a difference too. Inner tubes are made from either synthetic butyl rubber or natural latex rubber. Latex is more flexible and thinner too, so if you want to reduce rolling resistance then latex is the way to go. According to Jarno Bierman at, you’ll save 4-5 Watts using latex inner tubes over butyl tubes. That’s probably not a difference you can feel, but it’s one you can measure with a stopwatch.

So latex inner tubes are the best inner tubes? Not necessarily. The big disadvantage is that they’re more porous than butyl tubes. That means that they leak air sufficiently quickly that you’ll need to pump them up every day.

A wrinkle to all of this is that butyl inner tubes have got thinner and lighter in the last few years. Bierman tested a 100g butyl tube against an 80g latex tube, but you can get butyl tubes as light as 50g. Because they’re thinner, they have lower rolling resistance but won’t lose air like latex, but their increased fragility means they need more care in handling and puncture more easily.

Tyre maker Challenge cautions against the use of latex inner tubes with carbon fibre rims. It says: “Carbon rims do not dissipate heat as well as aluminium and prolonged braking, such as on long descents, may lead to hot spots along the braking surface. This increased heat can damage the latex material leading to a failure.”

Puncture resistance

Because the rubber is inherently stretchier, latex inner tubes are also more puncture-resistant, but for everyday riding you probably don’t want fewer punctures to come at the expense of daily inflation.

Sealants are a better solution. Preparations such as Slime contain small rubber particles suspended a liquid that dries on exposure to air. It’s pretty effective at sealing holes up to about 3mm across. However, it’s hard to squeeze a sealant through a Presta valve so sealant makers offer tubes with the fluid already inside.

Sealants aren’t perfect. If you get a big enough cut, the sealant won’t work and you’ll need to install a regular tube. Sealant-filled tubes are difficult to repair because the sealant stops the patch from sticking.

Sealants also add weight, but for the kind of everyday cycling application where you’d use them to prevent flats, you’re probably not going to mind an extra few grams.


If you’re not aiming for everyday riding puncture prevention, then a weight reduction is nice to have. A typical inexpensive inner tube — like the ones your bike probably came with — weighs 100-110g; Continental’s Supersonic tube weighs 55g (all weights for inner tubes with 60mm valves).

A 100g weight saving isn’t huge, but a pair of Supersonics is less than £20. There aren’t many places on a bike where you can get a weight saving of 5g/£. If you’re replacing a bike’s stock tyres with lighter rubber, it’s definitely worth getting better lighter tubes too.

Tubolito Tubo Road 700C — ~£21

Tubolito Tubo Road 700c

They may be expensive, but compared to a tubeless conversion – or a new wheelset – the 38g high-tech thermoplastic Tubo Road tubes from Tubolito are a cost-effective way of shedding some weight. They promise some puncture resistance benefits as well.

Compared to a random butyl 700C tube grabbed from the garage, the Tubo offers a saving of 60-70g. That's per tube. So for an outlay of about £40 you can shave 120-140g (4-5oz) off the weight of your bike.

Read our review of the Tubolito Tubo Road 700C
Find a Tubolito dealer

LifeLine Road Inner Tube — £2.49 - £2.99

Lifeline tube.jpg

The market for standard inner tubes has become very competitive in the last couple of years. With a claimed weight of around 100g, these tubes are stonking value at around two-fifty each (£2.99 for the longest-valve version), 10% off if you buy five, and 15% off for ten, which means 10 48mm-valve tubes will cost you just £2.11 each.

Michelin AirComp Ultralight — £4.95 - £7.99

Michelin AirComp.jpg

For around a fiver, these 75g butyl tubes will knock off a useful few grams without breaking the bank.

Find a Michelin dealer

Michelin Air Comp Latex — £10.48 - £12.92


If you want to give latex a try (stop sniggering at the back), then Michelin's highly-regarded tubes are your cheapest and most widely-available option.

At a claimed 75g they're a bit lighter than a standard tube, which is a good start. Being latex they're more flexible than butyl and will therefore reduce both rolling resistance and frequency of punctures.

Find a Michelin dealer

Slime Lite — £10.91

Slime Pro Pre-filled Lite inner tube crop

With a payload of Slime sealant inside a lightweight butyl tube, Slime's Lite tube weighs just 102g, which is less than many standard tubes.

Our tester experienced no punctures while using the Lite tube, but that might just have been the Puncture Fairy looking the other way for a few weeks.

So he headed into the shed and did a simple test, pushing a drawing pin into each tyre. Nothing happened. When he pulled the drawing pins out and gave the wheels a spin, the green goo bubbled out through the holes, then stopped; the Slime had sealed the holes. A pressure gauge revealed the tyres had dropped just 15 psi during this process, from 100 to 85 psi, and the tyres held that pressure during a subsequent ride.

Read our review of the Slime Lite

Find a Slime dealer

Continental Supersonic — ~£9.00


The lightest rubber inner tubes currently available, these are amazingly thin-walled. That makes them a bit fragile — you need to be careful installing them — but if saving weight is your aim, these are the best butyl inner tubes you can get.

Find a Continental dealer

Vredestein Race Latex Presta — £12.70 or £50.70 for 5

Vredestein Latex tubes.jpg

At just 50g each, Vredestein's latex inner tubes are as light as Continental Supersonics, but being latex will be more flexible and therefore make for tyre/tube combinations with lower rolling resistance. The porosity of latex means you're going to have to inflate your tyres every day, so these are tubes for a special pair of race or time trial wheels, to be rolled out when every second counts.

About Buyer's Guides

The aim of buyer's guides is to give you the most, authoritative, objective and up-to-date buying advice. We continuously update and republish our guides, checking prices, availability and looking for the best deals.

Our guides include links to websites where you can buy the featured products. Like most sites we make a small amount of money if you buy something after clicking on one of those links. We want you to be happy with what you buy, so we only include a product in a if we think it's one of the best of its kind.

As far as possible that means recommending equipment that we have actually reviewed, but we also include products that are popular, highly-regarded benchmarks in their categories.

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You can also find further guides on our sister sites and ebiketips. buyer's guides are maintained and updated by John Stevenson. Email John with comments, corrections or queries.

Acknowledged by the Telegraph as a leading cycling journalist, John Stevenson has been writing about bikes and cycling for over 30 years since discovering that people were mug enough to pay him for it rather than expecting him to do an honest day's work.

He was heavily involved in the mountain bike boom of the late 1980s as a racer, team manager and race promoter, and that led to writing for Mountain Biking UK magazine shortly after its inception. He got the gig by phoning up the editor and telling him the magazine was rubbish and he could do better. Rather than telling him to get lost, MBUK editor Tym Manley called John’s bluff and the rest is history.

Since then he has worked on MTB Pro magazine and was editor of Maximum Mountain Bike and Australian Mountain Bike magazines, before switching to the web in 2000 to work for Along with editor Tony Farelly, John was on the launch team for and subsequently became editor in chief of Future Publishing’s group of cycling magazines and websites, including Cycling Plus, MBUK, What Mountain Bike and Procycling.

John has also written for Cyclist magazine, edited the BikeMagic website and was founding editor of before handing over to someone far more representative of the site's main audience.

He joined in 2013 and these days he lives in Cambridge where the lack of hills is more than made up for by the headwinds.

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