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Disc Brake Noob - Tips Please!

Just got a disc brake road bike for the 1st time so please be gentle!

In the process of setting it up & pretty much every time I have the wheel off I'm getting rub. Is that just the way it is with disc brakes?

I've read about undoing the 2 bolts, pressing on the lever to move the calipers & then do up the bolts again whilst the lever is still pressed to centre them but seems a faff to have to do that every time.

Wondered if maybe I'm not reinserting the wheel correctly as it does seem to take me a couple of goes to get the hang of it. When I'm trying to line up the rotor in the caliper I'm finding it quite difficult so maybe I'm moving the pads / calipers then when I'm fiddling around? Not even attempted the back wheel yet Think that will staying on permanently at this rate!

Any tips on wheel replacement, centreing the calipers or any disc brake stuff in general greatly appreciated!

 

If you're new please join in and if you have questions pop them below and the forum regulars will answer as best we can.

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59 comments

Avatar
Jules Brown | 5 years ago
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I changed most of my bikes over to disc brakes about 10 years ago. I commute morning and night all year round  in Helsinki (so lots of wet, cold and horrible mess). I changed after two of my rim braked bikes suffered collapsed rims from really rapid rim wear, which took me by surprise. And discs just work better.

 

About the point about how to re-install the wheel. For my cable-disc braked bikes it is a faff, and to be honest I try to avoid removing wheels unnecessarily. It’s difficult to get them back in exactly the same spot that they came from. But there is one trick you could try; with the wheel on the ground mount the bike onto the wheel so that there is weight pushing the drop-outs onto the axle, give the wheel a waggle side-to-side to check that there is no dirt/fluff/whatever in the drop-out (you should feel clear clicks each time the axle hits the drop-out), maintain downward pressure on the bike while it is kept vertically aligned and tighten the QR very firmly. This might help.

 

About cleaning; I’ve never found a need to clean the rotors, but I still do. Usual soapy water and rinsing seem to make no difference to performance or lifetime. I’ve never used any special products. There was one occasion when I “accidentally” got some WD40 on the pads and rotors which rendered the brakes totally useless. I tried all sorts of trick to recover the pads (cleaning, filing, burning, baking..) but they never recovered and went in the bin. Nowadays I’m very careful about where I spray stuff near the bike.

 

P.S. one of my favourite bikes still has rim brakes and I ride that one quite differently!

Avatar
bluemarina | 5 years ago
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I think what you are discribing is precisely the main disadvantage of disc wheel! Sorry for not being of much help!

Avatar
hawkinspeter replied to bluemarina | 5 years ago
0 likes

bluemarina wrote:

I think what you are discribing is precisely the main disadvantage of disc wheel! Sorry for not being of much help!

Not really - this is a problem with a crap retaining pin/screw. I've never had a problem with a normal retaining pin that doesn't screw in.

Avatar
ibr17xvii | 5 years ago
0 likes

Anyone able to offer any guidance how I can get this out without a trip to the LBS? Screw head is a proper mangled mess

Either I'm stronger than I thought or these screws aren't the greatest.........

Avatar
hawkinspeter replied to ibr17xvii | 5 years ago
1 like

ibr17xvii wrote:

Anyone able to offer any guidance how I can get this out without a trip to the LBS? Screw head is a proper mangled mess

Either I'm stronger than I thought or these screws aren't the greatest.........

The screws are rubbish as I found out and the dust produced by the pads/discs tends to help them seize as well.

I took mine to a bike shop and got them to do it. I asked how they'd managed and they just used a Dremel (tiny electric saw with a circular head) to cut a new slot in the screw and got it out that way.

I've swapped my screws for the hex-head ones in the hope of avoiding the problem next time (which reminds me, I should check they aren't seized).

Avatar
ibr17xvii replied to hawkinspeter | 5 years ago
0 likes

HawkinsPeter wrote:

ibr17xvii wrote:

Anyone able to offer any guidance how I can get this out without a trip to the LBS? Screw head is a proper mangled mess

Either I'm stronger than I thought or these screws aren't the greatest.........

The screws are rubbish as I found out and the dust produced by the pads/discs tends to help them seize as well.

I took mine to a bike shop and got them to do it. I asked how they'd managed and they just used a Dremel (tiny electric saw with a circular head) to cut a new slot in the screw and got it out that way.

I've swapped my screws for the hex-head ones in the hope of avoiding the problem next time (which reminds me, I should check they aren't seized).

Looks like a trip to the LBS is unavoidable in this case which is really frustrating.

I'll be replacing front & back with allen heads as well, the screws are diabolical.

Avatar
hawkinspeter replied to ibr17xvii | 5 years ago
0 likes
ibr17xvii wrote:

HawkinsPeter wrote:

ibr17xvii wrote:

Anyone able to offer any guidance how I can get this out without a trip to the LBS? Screw head is a proper mangled mess

Either I'm stronger than I thought or these screws aren't the greatest.........

The screws are rubbish as I found out and the dust produced by the pads/discs tends to help them seize as well.

I took mine to a bike shop and got them to do it. I asked how they'd managed and they just used a Dremel (tiny electric saw with a circular head) to cut a new slot in the screw and got it out that way.

I've swapped my screws for the hex-head ones in the hope of avoiding the problem next time (which reminds me, I should check they aren't seized).

Looks like a trip to the LBS is unavoidable in this case which is really frustrating.

I'll be replacing front & back with allen heads as well, the screws are diabolical.

If only someone had warned you...

Avatar
ibr17xvii replied to hawkinspeter | 5 years ago
0 likes

HawkinsPeter wrote:
ibr17xvii wrote:

HawkinsPeter wrote:

ibr17xvii wrote:

Anyone able to offer any guidance how I can get this out without a trip to the LBS? Screw head is a proper mangled mess

Either I'm stronger than I thought or these screws aren't the greatest.........

The screws are rubbish as I found out and the dust produced by the pads/discs tends to help them seize as well.

I took mine to a bike shop and got them to do it. I asked how they'd managed and they just used a Dremel (tiny electric saw with a circular head) to cut a new slot in the screw and got it out that way.

I've swapped my screws for the hex-head ones in the hope of avoiding the problem next time (which reminds me, I should check they aren't seized).

Looks like a trip to the LBS is unavoidable in this case which is really frustrating.

I'll be replacing front & back with allen heads as well, the screws are diabolical.

If only someone had warned you...

Fair point well made!

Thought I would be able to get them out easily enough but apparently not.

Front was fine but I guess the rear is a different matter with all the road grime etc getting involved.

You learn by your mistakes I guess but Shimano must take some share of the blame as well. the screws aren't fit for purpose IMHO.

Avatar
hawkinspeter replied to ibr17xvii | 5 years ago
0 likes

ibr17xvii wrote:

HawkinsPeter wrote:
ibr17xvii wrote:

HawkinsPeter wrote:

ibr17xvii wrote:

Anyone able to offer any guidance how I can get this out without a trip to the LBS? Screw head is a proper mangled mess

Either I'm stronger than I thought or these screws aren't the greatest.........

The screws are rubbish as I found out and the dust produced by the pads/discs tends to help them seize as well.

I took mine to a bike shop and got them to do it. I asked how they'd managed and they just used a Dremel (tiny electric saw with a circular head) to cut a new slot in the screw and got it out that way.

I've swapped my screws for the hex-head ones in the hope of avoiding the problem next time (which reminds me, I should check they aren't seized).

Looks like a trip to the LBS is unavoidable in this case which is really frustrating.

I'll be replacing front & back with allen heads as well, the screws are diabolical.

If only someone had warned you...

Fair point well made!

Thought I would be able to get them out easily enough but apparently not.

Front was fine but I guess the rear is a different matter with all the road grime etc getting involved.

You learn by your mistakes I guess but Shimano must take some share of the blame as well. the screws aren't fit for purpose IMHO.

I had it the other way round - the rear was fine and the front seized.

I just went to check mine and the front seems a little stiff, so I might give it a clean soon to prevent any issues.

I totally agree with you about the screws. Flat head screws are just the wrong ones for that use and what really grinds my gears is that you hardly need to have a screw/thread as there's a retaining clip anyway. They could have just used a split pin.

Avatar
ibr17xvii replied to hawkinspeter | 5 years ago
0 likes

HawkinsPeter wrote:

ibr17xvii wrote:

HawkinsPeter wrote:
ibr17xvii wrote:

HawkinsPeter wrote:

ibr17xvii wrote:

Anyone able to offer any guidance how I can get this out without a trip to the LBS? Screw head is a proper mangled mess

Either I'm stronger than I thought or these screws aren't the greatest.........

The screws are rubbish as I found out and the dust produced by the pads/discs tends to help them seize as well.

I took mine to a bike shop and got them to do it. I asked how they'd managed and they just used a Dremel (tiny electric saw with a circular head) to cut a new slot in the screw and got it out that way.

I've swapped my screws for the hex-head ones in the hope of avoiding the problem next time (which reminds me, I should check they aren't seized).

Looks like a trip to the LBS is unavoidable in this case which is really frustrating.

I'll be replacing front & back with allen heads as well, the screws are diabolical.

If only someone had warned you...

Fair point well made!

Thought I would be able to get them out easily enough but apparently not.

Front was fine but I guess the rear is a different matter with all the road grime etc getting involved.

You learn by your mistakes I guess but Shimano must take some share of the blame as well. the screws aren't fit for purpose IMHO.

I had it the other way round - the rear was fine and the front seized.

I just went to check mine and the front seems a little stiff, so I might give it a clean soon to prevent any issues.

I totally agree with you about the screws. Flat head screws are just the wrong ones for that use and what really grinds my gears is that you hardly need to have a screw/thread as there's a retaining clip anyway. They could have just used a split pin.

I wouldn't mind if I was Mr Universe & I'd put too much force through it but I'm certainly not!

Wondered if a very very thin layer of grease would be any good on the screw / bolt although obviously being very careful not to contaminate the pads or rotors. To be fair that wouldn't have helped when I was clearly too heavy handed with the head.......

Avatar
hawkinspeter replied to ibr17xvii | 5 years ago
1 like

ibr17xvii wrote:

HawkinsPeter wrote:

ibr17xvii wrote:

HawkinsPeter wrote:
ibr17xvii wrote:

HawkinsPeter wrote:

ibr17xvii wrote:

Anyone able to offer any guidance how I can get this out without a trip to the LBS? Screw head is a proper mangled mess

Either I'm stronger than I thought or these screws aren't the greatest.........

The screws are rubbish as I found out and the dust produced by the pads/discs tends to help them seize as well.

I took mine to a bike shop and got them to do it. I asked how they'd managed and they just used a Dremel (tiny electric saw with a circular head) to cut a new slot in the screw and got it out that way.

I've swapped my screws for the hex-head ones in the hope of avoiding the problem next time (which reminds me, I should check they aren't seized).

Looks like a trip to the LBS is unavoidable in this case which is really frustrating.

I'll be replacing front & back with allen heads as well, the screws are diabolical.

If only someone had warned you...

Fair point well made!

Thought I would be able to get them out easily enough but apparently not.

Front was fine but I guess the rear is a different matter with all the road grime etc getting involved.

You learn by your mistakes I guess but Shimano must take some share of the blame as well. the screws aren't fit for purpose IMHO.

I had it the other way round - the rear was fine and the front seized.

I just went to check mine and the front seems a little stiff, so I might give it a clean soon to prevent any issues.

I totally agree with you about the screws. Flat head screws are just the wrong ones for that use and what really grinds my gears is that you hardly need to have a screw/thread as there's a retaining clip anyway. They could have just used a split pin.

I wouldn't mind if I was Mr Universe & I'd put too much force through it but I'm certainly not!

Wondered if a very very thin layer of grease would be any good on the screw / bolt although obviously being very careful not to contaminate the pads or rotors. To be fair that wouldn't have helped when I was clearly too heavy handed with the head.......

I tried putting WD40 on it and leaving it overnight and it made no difference. As far as I can tell, they find the softest metal possible to make the slotted heads - in fact, it wouldn't surprise me if it was silver painted butter.

Avatar
dreamlx10 | 5 years ago
2 likes

A long thread that tells you not to get a disc brake equipped bike

Avatar
madcarew replied to dreamlx10 | 5 years ago
2 likes

dreamlx10 wrote:

A long thread that tells you not to get a disc brake equipped bike

A long thread where those who actually own disc brake bikes tell you they're effective, low maintenance,  and simple in use. 

FTR, I get on my bike and ride. I don't clean the discs, I don't clean the pads, I don't have to re-centre the pads, I don't have to adjust cables or clearances.  They work really well in all weather and track conditions, under the same usage they out last rim brakes. I have rim brake bikes too. And every time it's wet and I'm trying to brake I wish they were disc brakes.

Avatar
BehindTheBikesheds replied to madcarew | 5 years ago
0 likes

madcarew wrote:

dreamlx10 wrote:

A long thread that tells you not to get a disc brake equipped bike

A long thread where those who actually own disc brake bikes tell you they're effective, low maintenance,  and simple in use. 

FTR, I get on my bike and ride. I don't clean the discs, I don't clean the pads, I don't have to re-centre the pads, I don't have to adjust cables or clearances.  They work really well in all weather and track conditions, under the same usage they out last rim brakes. I have rim brake bikes too. And every time it's wet and I'm trying to brake I wish they were disc brakes.

So you openly admit to not being able to brake properly, have poorly set up brakes/badly worn rims/pads, don't read the road ahead/perceive hazards, are going too fast for the conditions ...how many out of that list is it, or is it all of them, I suspect it is frankly. Anyone who can't brake sufficently in the wet on even modest rim brakes should get some training off road until they are competent to understand their errors. Simply going for the more is better to overcome a riders inability to do the basics is not a solution as we see in car drivers all the time.

Discs don't do shit to improve safety in the wet or any other situation, it encourages faster riding/later braking in situations that a rider predetermines they can stop in, it gets to a point that they are lulled into reducing that braking distance so much that any out of the ordinary occurence is as much if not more so to cause an incident than inferior brakes because the thinking time is cut down so much the brain simply does not have enough time to process the hazard so the brake whilst being more powerful than what came before won't stop you in time no matter what the conditions. You'll still end up in same situation as before because you're always pushing, hence why you can't brake in the wet on rims bakes.

Maybe take your wanker noddy hat off, you may find you'll have plenty of time to brake even on stirrup brakes in the wet!

Avatar
Mungecrundle replied to BehindTheBikesheds | 5 years ago
2 likes
BehindTheBikesheds wrote:

madcarew wrote:

dreamlx10 wrote:

A long thread that tells you not to get a disc brake equipped bike

A long thread where those who actually own disc brake bikes tell you they're effective, low maintenance,  and simple in use. 

FTR, I get on my bike and ride. I don't clean the discs, I don't clean the pads, I don't have to re-centre the pads, I don't have to adjust cables or clearances.  They work really well in all weather and track conditions, under the same usage they out last rim brakes. I have rim brake bikes too. And every time it's wet and I'm trying to brake I wish they were disc brakes.

So you openly admit to not being able to brake properly, have poorly set up brakes/badly worn rims/pads, don't read the road ahead/perceive hazards, are going too fast for the conditions ...how many out of that list is it, or is it all of them, I suspect it is frankly. Anyone who can't brake sufficently in the wet on even modest rim brakes should get some training off road until they are competent to understand their errors. Simply going for the more is better to overcome a riders inability to do the basics is not a solution as we see in car drivers all the time.

Discs don't do shit to improve safety in the wet or any other situation, it encourages faster riding/later braking in situations that a rider predetermines they can stop in, it gets to a point that they are lulled into reducing that braking distance so much that any out of the ordinary occurence is as much if not more so to cause an incident than inferior brakes because the thinking time is cut down so much the brain simply does not have enough time to process the hazard so the brake whilst being more powerful than what came before won't stop you in time no matter what the conditions. You'll still end up in same situation as before because you're always pushing, hence why you can't brake in the wet on rims bakes.

Maybe take your wanker noddy hat off, you may find you'll have plenty of time to brake even on stirrup brakes in the wet!

You will not understand until you spend a little time on a bike with a disc brake setup. Until then you only have an opinion.

Avatar
ibr17xvii replied to dreamlx10 | 5 years ago
2 likes

dreamlx10 wrote:

A long thread that tells you not to get a disc brake equipped bike

Not really. It tells you that I don't know anything about discs & people are willing to help. 

Avatar
matthewn5 | 5 years ago
0 likes

With all due respect, this all sounds a bit of a faff? Was thinking of a disc bike as commuter, but interested in thoughts as to whether discs are too hard to live with in daily use. I ride to work all year.

Avatar
Canyon48 replied to matthewn5 | 5 years ago
3 likes

matthewn5 wrote:

With all due respect, this all sounds a bit of a faff? Was thinking of a disc bike as commuter, but interested in thoughts as to whether discs are too hard to live with in daily use. I ride to work all year.

I commute on my bike at least 4 times a week, and have done for a year.

The last time I adjusted the brakes was 10 months ago...

 

Disc brakes are unbelievably maintenance and hassle-free, they are easy to set up too, literally all you do is fill them with hydraulic fluid and give them a squeeze.

Avatar
madcarew replied to matthewn5 | 5 years ago
2 likes

matthewn5 wrote:

With all due respect, this all sounds a bit of a faff? Was thinking of a disc bike as commuter, but interested in thoughts as to whether discs are too hard to live with in daily use. I ride to work all year.

In my experience of owning bikes, (hydraulic) disc brakes are less maintenance and faff than standard rim brakes. I'd be very glad of a disc bike as a commuter for wet weather braking, and ease of use.

Avatar
ibr17xvii replied to matthewn5 | 5 years ago
1 like

matthewn5 wrote:

With all due respect, this all sounds a bit of a faff? Was thinking of a disc bike as commuter, but interested in thoughts as to whether discs are too hard to live with in daily use. I ride to work all year.

Only used them for a month but I wouldn't say so. 

I think it just looks worse on this thread cos I've asked loads of questions!

Avatar
StraelGuy | 5 years ago
0 likes

I clean my discs with isopropyl a few times a year, you can buy a litre from Amazon for peanuts.

Avatar
ibr17xvii | 5 years ago
0 likes

Yay or nay to cleaning pads & rotors and if so what with?

Plan on riding through winter in variable weathers so think stuff will obviously get grimey but not ridiculously so as in if I were riding off road.

Read some stuff that says you're best just leaving it alone as the residue from the pads deposited on the rotors aid braking & if you clean it off you have to bed them in again but read other stuff that says a wipe or squirt with Isopropyl Alcohol on the calipers/pads/rotors isn't gonna do any harm.

What does everyone else do?

Avatar
madcarew replied to ibr17xvii | 5 years ago
0 likes

ibr17xvii wrote:

Yay or nay to cleaning pads & rotors and if so what with?

Plan on riding through winter in variable weathers so think stuff will obviously get grimey but not ridiculously so as in if I were riding off road.

Read some stuff that says you're best just leaving it alone as the residue from the pads deposited on the rotors aid braking & if you clean it off you have to bed them in again but read other stuff that says a wipe or squirt with Isopropyl Alcohol on the calipers/pads/rotors isn't gonna do any harm.

What does everyone else do?

Nay.

To be fair I don't ride in european road conditions with disc brakes, but I put my brake pads in, ride until they're worn out and put new ones in. When I replace the pads I bleed the brakes (10 min job).

If you get grease / oil on them (?road contamination?) you can wipe them with IPA or meths, but tbh they're not expensive and if they're not working just replace them. I don't see any point in cleaning the rotors unless you've spilled your chain lubricant on them

Avatar
hawkinspeter replied to ibr17xvii | 5 years ago
0 likes
ibr17xvii wrote:

Yay or nay to cleaning pads & rotors and if so what with?

Plan on riding through winter in variable weathers so think stuff will obviously get grimey but not ridiculously so as in if I were riding off road.

Read some stuff that says you're best just leaving it alone as the residue from the pads deposited on the rotors aid braking & if you clean it off you have to bed them in again but read other stuff that says a wipe or squirt with Isopropyl Alcohol on the calipers/pads/rotors isn't gonna do any harm.

What does everyone else do?

I don't bother cleaning them, though they probably get splashed with car shampoo when I'm cleaning the rest of my bike.

Avatar
ibr17xvii | 5 years ago
0 likes

Next noob stupid question alert!

When I'm cleaning the drivetrain I usually have a liberal squirt of Muc Off MO94 to drive out any moisture in the chain but obviously I don't want to be getting this on my rotors, pads or in the calipers either presumably.

Is it best to cover the rotor with a bag or something similar or is there a more technical solution than that?

Avatar
hawkinspeter replied to ibr17xvii | 5 years ago
0 likes

ibr17xvii wrote:

Next noob stupid question alert!

When I'm cleaning the drivetrain I usually have a liberal squirt of Muc Off MO94 to drive out any moisture in the chain but obviously I don't want to be getting this on my rotors, pads or in the calipers either presumably.

Is it best to cover the rotor with a bag or something similar or is there a more technical solution than that?

I'd just go for aiming it so that it doesn't go near the rotor etc.

Avatar
ibr17xvii replied to hawkinspeter | 5 years ago
0 likes

hawkinspeter wrote:

ibr17xvii wrote:

Next noob stupid question alert!

When I'm cleaning the drivetrain I usually have a liberal squirt of Muc Off MO94 to drive out any moisture in the chain but obviously I don't want to be getting this on my rotors, pads or in the calipers either presumably.

Is it best to cover the rotor with a bag or something similar or is there a more technical solution than that?

I'd just go for aiming it so that it doesn't go near the rotor etc.

That was my thought but I fear I may be a wee bit too trigger happy.....

Avatar
Canyon48 | 5 years ago
0 likes

I've used the Shimano RS805 and Ultegra R8020 disc brake pads, really can't fault them at all, I'd happily recommend them  1

Avatar
ibr17xvii replied to Canyon48 | 5 years ago
0 likes

Canyon48 wrote:

I've used the Shimano RS805 and Ultegra R8020 disc brake pads, really can't fault them at all, I'd happily recommend them  1

Good to know the Shimano pads are up to scratch on discs. I've always replaced the stock rim brake pads straight away with Swissstop.

Avatar
hawkinspeter | 5 years ago
0 likes

I've just used the Shimano pads. I have heard from somewhere (probably this site) that you shouldn't alternate metal and resin pads on the same rotor, but I have no idea how true that is or what the consequences are.

What I do recommend is either replace the shitty pad retaining pins or make sure you loosen/tighten them once in a while to stop them completely seizing. One of mine seized, so after my LBS rescued it, I replaced the pins with hex-head pins instead.

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