I'm always confused but loving it.

I used to commute 80 km days on a high quality 700c23 racer. Never wet, always sunny, no problems. Didn't get flats, carried about 10kg on back.
Bike was stolen.
I then commuted about 9 km on a cheap racer 700c23 . Trucking suburb, 30 kg on back. Lots of rear punctures. Upgraded tyre to a slow high volume 28. Front cheap 23. No problems.
Years past. Got back on a bike.
Commuted 30 km. Little weight. Old but nice racer. 700c28 Maxxis Refuse. (Lower volume than above but faster.) No problems.
Then commuted 15 km. Same combo. Started getting punctures. Not sure if 10+year old rims worn, whatever. Punctures suck. Switched onto 38 mm Maxxis Overdrive, 32mm Wiggles brand rear. A year later, no punctures.
What had changed my mind was running late to work, boss on phone while changing a puncture during a rain storm. I get consistent times on my wider combinations and reliability is awesome.
During summer I'll commute with a high quality racer on 28 mm tyres which I don't think I've punctured yet but most summer days will be on the same ol' get on and go combination that carries me through winter..

I like the wider tyres because holding pace along a river track is way easier but straight smooth sections are slightly slower (maybe a lot slower?). Yet more so like because punctures suck.
I glad if I helped someone. Live to ride, ride to live


Boatsie [373 posts] 2 months ago
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Just a note.. I purpose built my bike to accommodate reliability, quality, cheap and general overall high traveling average speed (per my fitness ability).
I can't currently figure out what's wrong with it (I lent it to my brother.. 4 months? Bottom bracket noisy as, yet reading another topic in forum probably something to do with rear cog alignment).
I don't actually think there's much difference between when I had 28s and now with 38/32 per distance coverage times but what is heaps better is my favourite commuting track.
Instead of 7km direct route of +1metre height difference, my preferred cycling route is about 30 km.. 3 km consistent climb (shallow), farther climb of 2km steep.. (7% ) total about 250-500metre then a slight roller coaster chased by a consistent descent gradient of about 23km. During ride most of the road is smooth but about half way is 2-4 km of rough cut tarmac. Lovely on wide feet. Slow as (or as rough as guts) on normal widths.
I honestly think I'll get loads more service life out of my rims on wider tyres but if I was Sunday church in a peliton I doubt I'd keep pace although that's my problem with 28s too. When this bike cracks, etc I'll go another with 38+mm clearances (or 35mm clearances because second hand is all my bikes) because on public access city routes, roads ain't always smooth. Summer has snakes in shady tree paths but winter has trees shading rain.
Happy cyclist.

Boatsie [373 posts] 2 months ago
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Going on now.. Getting on too. Old age rocks.
Someways I'd had wished I'd kept my old old mans pushie.. A massive steel frame Super Elliott. Although heaps heavy, the older 27inch? Rim tyre combos seemed to be built per roads (not tracks) and didn't puncture much. The extra weight uphill is also the extra weight downhill. Bearings make it, knot the weight. The extra gravity assistance overcomes the expedential of wind pretty nicely. He was booked speeding in an 80kmph zone, his work commute was just under 100km daily round trip. Pretty nice on a 10 speed.
Anyway, see you guys girls 'round. Stay upright. Most my bikes seem to limit force per windage at about 85, not 90+. Weight is nice sometimes.

BehindTheBikesheds [3322 posts] 2 months ago
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For commuting, 32mm folding rear (specialized Borough Pro CX), good compound, flexible sidewalls, 28mm folding front (Giant PSLR2) good central tyre thickness. I've only just dropped below 100kg since the last 20 years, carry 10kg plus twice a week and certainly more.

Yes I get punctures from time to time (maybe two a year max) but I ride through industrial areas, a bit of off road and country roads with washed out roads (so lots of flint etc)