Flat mount brake mounting

Excellent, enjoy!

PP

Hmmn, good call. Looking again though, the axle seems to be almost as far down in the dropout as it could be, so getting the disc rotor further away from the caliper to stop it fouling looks like it could only possibly be achieved by moving the axle around to the 7 or 8 o’clock position...

PP

Bugger I don't win the prize. I nearly suggested that. I noticed the dropout looked removable in your photos, but ruled it out too quickly. We have a couple of Canyon Aeroads here that have reversible dropouts, but I just moved on assuming that you simply woudn't do that with a disc bike. Even though it got me thinking about how you'd have to adjust a rim brake's calipers to accomodate it!

Tim,

Are you getting anywhere? I know none of us have the answer, but we hope we can help by throwing ideas at you.

FWIW, I've just come into my office, which also looks like a bike shop with so many colleagues on two wheels, and I can tell you that every flat mount disc bike we have her aheives a 160mm rotor mount by rotating the bracket up / down. One is a Shimano bracket. Another is a proprietray BMC RoadMachine bracket shaped to the fork. Bottom line is that none of them achieve the larger diameter by spacing AWAY from the fork. This differs from post mount adapters, that do a similar thing, but also tend to push the caliper away from the fork as well. Cynically, I suggest that this newer method is because Shimano told them to not undermine the flatness of their new flat mount standard with bulky brackets.

So, I'd say, presuming the manufacturer hasn't made some massive stupid deviation from the accpeted geomtery, that your answer lies in the positioning of that bracket. Stating the obvious and leaving nothing unsaid, there's 4 ways it can go, not just two.

Anyway, if you can't get anywhere with all of that, consider modifying the bracket by drilling two new holes. Flip the orientation until you find a place with the right amount of meat on it, and measure well! Dodgy as it sounds, it's probably better than your spacers. Your bike is already telling you that!

Good luck!

Yes, you need to make sure the Sram backet is the right way round. Presumably the 'Front 160' legened should be uppermost with a 160mm rotor. There's a Shimano equivalent thing where the labelling is on the outside of the adapter, so if you have a 160mm rotor you should be able to read 160 on the outside.

Here it is with a 140mm rotor.

. . By which I mean try flipping to top to bottom.

Hmm. Your frame is listed as being native (for want of a better word) to 140mm rotors, so I guess you've got that part right. But I keep looking at that bracket and can't see how flipping it to different orientations can make up the 10mm radius difference between that and 160. But I guess, I've got to ask, are you sure it's in the right way around? It could be that it alters the position up and down the fork rather than away from the fork to achieve the bigger diameter.

You shouldn’t have those spacers in there. You definitely have a 160mm front disc rotor? I say that because it looks as if you are trying to mount the caliper further out to accommodate a larger disc rotor.

The judder will be caused by a combination of the spacers and the pad positioning relative to the rotor I would assume. I wouldn’t ride it like that, especially if you haven’t used longer bolts to account for those spacers...

Those of us outside the US can no longer view Competitve Cyclist links so can’t see which adapters you have. The one in the other pictures looks right and orientated correctly for a 160mm rotor.

PP