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Light tourer alternatives to Surly Crosscheck - with cantis, not discs?

Hi all, having just had some lovely light touring wheels built up, I'm now thinking about frames to put them on. I'm wanting cantis, because those new wheels and all my other wheels are rim brake, and so I can standardise with the OH's bike, so we can carry fewer spares when touring.

This will be light (credit card) touring, not heavy, so was looking at things like the Thorn Audax Mk 3, Surly Cross Check, Cinelli Hobootleg, etc. Needs to have rack and guard braze-ons at front and rear. Prefer sloping top tube for a nice flexy seatpost, which is why I'd turned against the Surly. Can be alloy or steel, not fussy. All suggestions welcome!

If you're new please join in and if you have questions pop them below and the forum regulars will answer as best we can.

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20 comments

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Woldsman | 3 years ago
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I have a steel tourer with cantis and an aluminium winter bike with long drop brakes. Both are suitable for light touring, but if I were to lose them both and looked for just one to replace them for *light* touring only I would look at the Spa Audax range. 
 

The Ti version is a bit spendy, but the steel one - with a carbon fork on all but the smallest frame - is very reasonably priced. 
 

I reckon Shimano BR-R650 calipers (the last long drop models in the Ultegra range) are comparable to quite a number of cantis. They're certainly better than mine. Just a thought. 

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kil0ran replied to Woldsman | 3 years ago
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I have the 650s on my best bike, they're very good. Might not be necessary though, there's plenty of clearance for 28mm tyres (and guards) with 5800/6800 and newer brakes.

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Woldsman replied to kil0ran | 3 years ago
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I've fitted 5800s on a friend's bike. My understanding is that these more modern calipers can cope with the roundness of a fatter tyre, but bikes such as the Spa Audax - and the fork Spa spec to go with the frame - are expecting a long drop caliper so that the 5800/6800 onwards would hit the bottom of their slots before they are low enough for the brake blocks to engage properly with the rim. But I don't know for certain and I'm happy to be proved wrong. 

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kil0ran replied to Woldsman | 3 years ago
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Yeah, it can be tight - when I ran 5800 my pads were bottomed out. You can get extenders but they'll take some bite and modulation away, to the point you're better off with long drop calipers

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mike the bike | 3 years ago
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If you decide to follow the rather presumptuous advice to get disc brakes, don't forget that nice Mr Wibble, who makes rather nice frames now.  And at a reassuringly expensive price too.

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wtjs | 3 years ago
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This project was misguided from the outset- if those new non-disc wheels were intended for a previous bike, then use them on it. Don't lumber a new bike with obsolete brakes with the spurious excuse that you can carry fewer spares. 2 pairs of brake pads and a pair of brake blocks are not very heavy.

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Richbeck replied to wtjs | 3 years ago
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Rude.

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matthewn5 replied to Richbeck | 3 years ago
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Indeed.

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IanEdward replied to wtjs | 3 years ago
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What about the spurious excuse that he'll be able to build a lighter bike for less money and not be lumbered with horrendous screeching every time he tries to brake in the wet?

I've built up a cantilever brake gravel bike and every time I ride with buddies in anything but the driest conditions I'm reminded that I made the right choice, I'm almost embarassed for them the noise their discs make! Honk honk howl etc.

I would suggest my rim brake frame (Kinesis CX1) to the OP but it's a dedicated CX frame so horizontal top tube, very little seatpost showing, low stack...

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Sriracha replied to IanEdward | 3 years ago
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IanEdward wrote:

I'm almost embarassed for them the noise their discs make! Honk honk howl etc.

I would be embarrassed too. My discs don't make any noise.

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TheBillder replied to Sriracha | 3 years ago
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Is there a secret? I've tried different pads etc and only found grease on the back of the pads helps - but it's no panacea.

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Sriracha replied to TheBillder | 3 years ago
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Well, they have never made a noise from day 1, so unless I can get them to start making a noise, difficult to say. It's a Pinnacle D3, Shimano 105 brakes. That said, none of my mates bikes discs make any noise either.

I'm probably not the person to ask about fettling brakes for silence - never did manage to get the cantis on my old bike to shut up!  3

For what it's worth, I've never paid any special attention to cleaning them, beyond just cleaning the bike, so no degreasers or sandpaper stuff. The wheels are thru-axle, which I assume helps, since squealing has to be something vibrating in the audio frequency spectrum, so having everything in alignment and correctly torqued must help.

There's a thread here:
https://road.cc/content/feature/how-stop-your-brakes-squealing-188504
This comment caught my eye:

Roberts Clubman wrote:

I bought some upgrade disc brake wheels for my road bike. They squealed from the off. Tried everything - flaming the pads, cleaning the rotors, hot water, cold water. Still squealed. I also experienced noticeable front brake rub when riding out of the saddle.  The front hub end caps were just push-in jobs, so I thought maybe some flexing was causing vibration and squealing. Anyway, I swapped them out for the stock wheels on my commuter bike. Problem solved immediately. Plus the upgrade wheels don't squeal at all now they're fitted on my commuter bike. No brake rub either. Go figure!

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TheBillder replied to Sriracha | 3 years ago
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Thanks for this, I'll read that thread. Most of the disc braked bikes in my club squeal in the wet - or they did in Feb 2020... Apart from one guy whose brakes never have. Happens to me on different wheels too, although none of mine is above cheap level.

The only benefit is not needing a bell on a shared use path.

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Joe Totale replied to TheBillder | 3 years ago
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I've got both SRAM and Shimano disc brake bikes and they only squeal when it is pouring down.
They do make a racket then but I'd rather have the sound then having to worry about stopping.

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IanEdward replied to TheBillder | 3 years ago
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I only know one guy whose brakes don't squeel in the wet, he weighs 67kg, runs 140mm rotors on a CX bike, and runs a very small frame size. To my mind that equates to smaller, more compact frame, stiffer rotors and less stopping power required in the first place, perhaps prevents the resonance and squealing that I experienced in the past (85kg, large frame, 160mm rotors) and my riding buddies also experience (at least one is significantly lighter than me, but still runs a larger frame and 160mm rotors.

I understand the stopping power vs. squeal point of view, but I've never worried about stopping power of my rim brakes, good aluminium rims and decent pads seem to do the trick.

Anyway, this debate exists ad nauseam elsewhere, I just object to the idea that rim brakes are 'obsolete'. I think they very much still have a place.

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Richbeck | 3 years ago
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Longstaff.

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matthewn5 replied to Richbeck | 3 years ago
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That's Rourke isn't it? I've got a lovely Rourke... but thanks for the suggestion!. Longstaff look like beautiful bikes, but a bit spendy

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Richbeck replied to matthewn5 | 3 years ago
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Jason Rourke has been building for Longstaff for a number of years and took over the name a couple of years back - you won't look back if you are after an Audax - I have an older Reynolds 853 model - one of the last George built.

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kil0ran | 3 years ago
1 like

Spa Cycles Ti Touring? On offer at £750 at the moment (frame, no forks)

Or their Wayfarer at £400 - future proof as it has canti bosses and disc mounts

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matthewn5 replied to kil0ran | 3 years ago
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That Ti Touring is lovely - thanks for the suggestion!
It's a bit more than I was hoping to pay... but it's shiny, mmmm.

Cheers!

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