What would be normal wear and tear in 2 months?

"yes, I know other bike shops are available, but tbh they were not accomodating" - 1-0 to Halfords vs LBS.  They can all improve on their customer service skills. Bike snobbery is the dumbest thing I've ever come across

Sometimes even with wheels more expensive than the total cost of your bike you can get a badly tensioned set.  I had a Shimano set on a bought bike that were out of true in a couple of weeks.  I would just retrue them or take it back to Halfords for a trueing.  As for gear tuning unusally i haven't touched a bike this year normally i have to do a bit of tweaking and i'm just under 6.5k for the year.  The only tuning that should really be required is cable tension which can be adjusted with the barrel adjusters unless you knock the derailleur.  As we've had a very decent summer bike maintainance has been pretty minimal other than cleaning.  Winter being here now i expect way more maintainance for far fewer miles.  

A badly built wheel is a badly built, whatever the cost. As for repairing it, I believe that the wheel would have to be stripped back and rebuilt from scratch, rather than just replacing/retightening the damaged spokes.

I would be having a look at the weight limits too, but I wouldn't have thought that it's come with a 16 spoke flyweight wheel, so shouldn't be a problem.

Buying a cheapish set of new wheels might be a way forward, it worked for me. And you can always take them with you when you buy a new bike.

As for other stuff, some wears out, some needs maintenance and some will just be cheap shit on  a budget bike.

I agree with Cyclefaster, no reason why a bike at the cheaper end of the scale can't give months and years of good service if set up well in the first place and then well maintained.

If the wheel wasn't built very well to begin with, and that is quite possible with factory built wheels, then the spokes might not have been the correct tension to start with or been de-stressed (can't remember if that's the exact correct term). If that's the case then it's likely they will continually go out of true as spokes loosen. This assumes you mean the wheel rim moves side to side like the first response queries - rather than it being loose bearings.

A shop that can build wheels should be able to tension the wheel properly rather than just tweak some of the nipples around the out of true section to bring it back straight. Or buy yourself a spoke key and read how to true the rim yourself. It's not difficult if you take it slowly.

If you're on tarmac and avoiding big potholes, even at 100kg they shouldn't be going out of true that often but I think it would be hard to argue the wheels are a warranty issue, without the opinion of someone who knows what a well built wheel is.

Depends if you're talking about buckles in the wheel or a bearing issue. Buckles are just an occupational hazard and factory-built wheels can/do go out of tension and true pretty easily. I had a brand new Raleigh wheel from Halfords fail within 15 miles (I was also well north of 100kgs then). I'd take the wheels to a proper bike shop and have them true them for you and check spoke tension. Both these things are an acquired skill and best left to professionals IMO when you're just starting. 

Wheels are often an area where corners are cut to make a price point - Decathlon wheels had a reputation for crap bearing life a few years back for example. You can tell if there's play in the bearings by grasping the wheel firmly at the top and pushing it from side to side. There should be no play and if they've gone in two months then that's a defect, particularly as the weather hasn't been particularly bad yet. 

You should also expect brakes and gears to go out of adjustment in the first couple of months as cable housing settle down into their stops. Usually resolved by a quarter turn on a barrel adjuster at the rear derailleur. Sora is a good quality groupset these days so it should be reliable, but gears do need occasional tweaks to get them running smoothly. 

I'm guessing you've got disc brakes and they'll also need fettling regularly.

Bike maintenance is actually pretty easy to learn yourself these days with Youtube and your bike is on the simple side with big tolerances in terms of shifting setup. The disc brakes will probably be a constant faff as cable-actuated discs just go out of whack really easily. The trickiest thing to learn is probably indexing gears - the key to that is having good eyes and ears and to make small adjustments only (we're talking a quarter of a turn at a time on an adjuster. Rear gears are easier to index than the front. 

I daren't step on the scales either - that is a fair bit to put on your wheels - do you carry much cargo too? I can see this model at £550 - is that correct? That's on the modest side, tbh.
 

What other issues have you had? cables always stretch a bit from new which can play havoc with indexed gears; random bolts come undone in the first 200 miles. 

It's possible the wheels haven't been put together very well - spokes should generally go "ping" at around the same pitch when plucked  - it may be "pong" on the drive side of the rear. They should all feel pretty tight - but it's a dark art how tight - and there shouldn't be any loose ones. 

You can true them yourself, if they are a bit out,  with a spoke key. 
 

My first road bike was a £300 from Decathlon which was an all year round commuter for a number of years. I have plenty of faith that cheap bikes that are reasonably well maintained can be solid performers and up to the job and I wouldn't expect to have problems with it, especially after 2 months.