Building a super bike

Buying a full on race bike should come with a health warning; if you are over 80kg then you'll look a bit silly on a race bike (unless you have a physique like Marcel Kittel's or Andre Greipel's).

Seeing as you're after a bike very similar/identical to Chris Froome's, might I recommend the following?

https://www.facebook.com/FullProKitW/

Someone delete this thread.  And stop encouraging him.

8 hours a week is probably more than most hobby cyclists.

"but as a noob"

One "o" too many, one "k" too few.

Buying a pro spec bike doesn't make someone a pro. Just get something with Ultegra, upgrade the wheels and enjoy riding rather than focusing on kit.

Unlike almost everyone else here, I say why not!  If you can afford it then why not treat yourself to a amazing bike.

I do second the point about bike fit though; I'm about to buy myself my fourth bike in 4 years or so, each one being progressively more expensive than the last.  Once you've many 1000's of km under your belt, you know what works for you etc.  While it would of course have been cheaper to jump straight to my planned 40th birthday present - there are other benefits to having multiple bikes (winter bike when the weather is shit, endurance/relaxed geometry bike for those 100 mile days in the saddle) which I consider well worth paying for.

The main consideration for me at this point is what size Aeroad I need, and whether the position is too racy for me to live with.  There's a world of difference between what is comfortable for a quick pootle around the block versus four hours on the bike.  I think that only spending hundreds of hours riding will give you this insight into your own capabilities.  Being a Canyon it's a lot more difficult to try before you buy (although the Bike Live thing in London looks well timed for me).

Were I in your position, I'd probably spring for a very nice (but not superbike level) Canyon Ultimate CF SL 8.0.  You'll need to do a lot of miles to outgrow a bike like that.  Depending on where you are, you can try one out at the Bike Live days as well

Get a power meter as well its the best way of objectively showing how good you are and if you are getting better. It is also incredibly useful to pace yourself. A power meter is defintely worth it no matter what your level.

Can I have a go too?

Assuming OP is genuine, I'd suggest he buys a complete bike. No offence but he sounds beginner-ish and assembling a bike from a frame and a stack of components is not a task for the inexperienced especially when a mistake could be expensive.

Walking into any high end bike shop and saying you're interested in an F10 or similar should get you someone's undivided attention. 

I've taken inspiration from this thread and decided that 2018 is the year that I get organised and start a project to get myself a hyper-bike.

Ideas on where to start?

I would advise against expensive equipment until you are more experienced. Newbie riders tend to hit the tarmac more often, have silly incidents (e.g. lean their bikes up against walls and scratch them) and don't know how to look after/clean their equipment properly (e.g. know when parts need replacing or adjusting). Have you even used clipless pedals before?
Learn all this stuff on a cheap bike. Even a grand will get you a decent bike these days.
I used to race and won quite a few races (including a couple of national championships) and the bike I ride around on the UK roads these days is a custom Ti frame with cross geometry, Ultegra Di2 and 28mm tyres (when used on tarmac). I'm not interested in superbikes as they wouldn't suit the riding I do. I have no problem with people buying whatever they want but that would be my advice nevertheless - to learn before you invest and make an informed decision. I've only really learnt to look after my equipment in the last 5 years after joining a club in 1990! YouTube (GCN) is a great resource for picking up tips.

OP: this makes no sense whatsoever. If you don't know what bike you want why would your first one be the most expensive you can find? Better, just get something around the £1000-2000 mark and learn what you like and don't like about it. Upgrade, change, get a proper fit whatever and then plump for something fancy when you have at least a reasonable amount of experience and insight.

That said (and note this is my personal opinion) expensive bikes are for mugs. They make absolutely no difference to all but the most elite athletes. No. Difference. The bike industry - just like the hifi industry - prays on selling fantasy benefits to people (particularly men) on the autistic spectrum who hope it'll somehow help them get a KOM on Strava and who obsess over the benefits of 50g saved on a £300 saddle.

Don't be one of them. Get something awesome at a good price and put the remaining £8000 into training hard enough to woop the ass of anyone on a Dogma. If you want validation of your self worth - as these mega purchases so often intended - there's no better way to feel good about yourself than that.

Part Robot, you understand bikes far better than the autistic spectrum. Please don't confuse a middle aged man that likes his tools in the correct order with somebody with autism...

I'll be polite but blunt.  Ieeing as you know your motorcycles I'll ask this. Would you recommend a Ducati 1199 to some one just going for their CBT?

Thats what you are doing.

Nice to have the cash but you need to see what works for you first. It could be the "best" in the world but if it doesn't suit your riding its crap.

We need to know more really ...

You said: 'I’ve decided to take my cycling more seriously after a few months on a relative’s bike.'  Great, but at what exertion level? Pootling, raised pulse or harder?

Do you know what you most like to do yet? Off-road, city centres with hard cornering, solo high intensity work, hill climbing, canal paths?

What level of fitness have you achieved so far? Do you stretch regularly, and how aero a position are you able to sustain?

Meanwhile, don't get a custom build until you can answer much of that.

If you must splash the cash now, get something that looks nice in the January sales. You'll get a solid discount, and you can test ride it first. All the parts will work together properly and will be warranted. Plus when you resell it, you'll lose less money.

Get a bike fit to find the stack and reach that work for you now, knowing these may change a bit as you get stronger and more flexible.

A super-stiff bike can give a harsh ride, and if you're not low at the front and/or carrying some weight, your privates and back will tell you all about it.

It's fun to have and ride a superbike, but you can have a lot of fun on something much cheaper.

My daily driver is a SuperSix Evo non-HiMod, bought new for £770, plus £500 on narrower bars (narrow shoulders), 130mm -17deg stem (my bike fit), saddle with cutout (woman-shaped), seat post (less road vibration), Ultegra calipers (better modulation than Tiagra), brake blocks (ditto) and tyres (road-holding).

I also have an ex-Pro Tour Bianchi which is a dream, but is really not worth loads more.

I think you guys are being far too kind with your advice here....might be xmas spirit but my take is that this is a wind up

Oh and if your planning on racing don't race what you can't afford to replace.

As mentioned, is suggest tubs are beat saved for racing.
If you have the coin, I'd suggest going for disc brakes. This will future proof your ride and just provide a better experience.
If you do this, you have to go Shimano di2 as everyone else's hydraulic shifters look gash.
Money no object, go dura ace di2 with discs, but I'd suggest the new ultegra will still deliver a beautiful ride and bike.
The discs will also open the option of going carbon tubeless on the wheels. This is the answer. Superb fast and comfortable rolling, great puncture resistance and basically the best of all worlds.
Finishing kit is personal choice.

You don't need a superbike to take training seriously.
A £500 bike can let you train perfectly well. Wasn't the BBAR champs bike 2nd hand and under a grand a year or two ago ?

Spend maybe a grand on a decent bike and get to see what you like or dislike about it. Then it can be your winter or bad weather bike when you decide what you really need on a bike.

Personally I'd not ride tubs again and I'd go etap.

Pro bikes aren't necessarily the best but they're paid to use them.

From your original post I'd advise against tubulars for anything but racing. They don't puncture much, but when they do, you're stuff unless you have a team car with spare wheels.

I'd repeat the advice to avoid a full on superbike intended for racing. The geometry isn't the best for people that don't spend a fair amount of the year on a bike. If you do, or are going to, then go for it. But keep in mind that Pinarello do the GAN RS, which is a little more relaxed in fit.

Dura Ace is beautiful so if you've got the cash, do it. Pro components is what Sky use and they're also really nice. We've tested a fair amount of their stuff.

But the biggest piece of advice is to go to a shop and get them to fit the bike to you. They can then tell you all about the gearing you'll need for the local terrain. They'll also talk you through what components would be best for you.

I should also point out that I'm rather jealous!