Silca's Synergetic Drip Lube lasts for ages, is very clean, and will save you loads of money in drivetrain components. Yes, it's £32 a bottle. But that will last you a year and save you many times that amount replacing prematurely-worn components.
Last year I reviewed Silca's Super Secret Chain Lube, a wax-based formulation with super-slippery tungsten disulfide ('WS2') particles that does a pretty darn good job of keeping chains running clean and smooth. The problem is that application is messy, and the wax particles flake off – so using it indoors is a hassle.
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Synergetic also features WS2, plus a new additive used in racing car engines. The combination of these two materials forms a film that Silca says reduces wear by 80-90% over other lubes – demonstrated, apparently, by lab tests.
Interestingly (and independently), Australian site Zero Friction Cycling's exhaustingly exhaustive testing concluded – in its 45 page PDF report – that Synergetic is the best drip lube, and close to being the best lube period.
Waxing your chain still beats it in certain circumstances, but that's such a faffing niche case it's only of interest to a very few cyclists. Most people want to drip stuff on and go ride. And that's where Synergetic delivers.
Easy ride
Silca recommends starting with a clean chain (always a good idea), but if it's new and still factory greased, that's fine; apparently, after 4-5 rides the Synergetic will have replaced the factory lube.
The bottle features a fine metal applicator tip, covered with a rubber cap. It's very easy to squeeze the recommended one drop per roller onto the chain, pedal it backwards a bit, wipe it and ride. And that's all it takes – though wiping the chain completely clean once done, and after each ride, is critical.
You don't want any lube – of any brand – on the outside of your chain, full stop. It does no good there, only bad. It attracts dust and mud, makes a huge mess, and eventually that grinding paste eats up your components.
Quiet life
After 250km of mostly off-road gravel riding I noticed a few tiny spots of rust on the outside of the chain, but no squeaking or excess noise. After 450km things were a bit noisier – still no clear squeaking, though, as can herald a lube that's giving up. Another drop per roller, another wipe and at 600km things were still quiet and smooth... I'm now at over 800km, and still going strong.
> Get your gears shifting sweetly: How to tune a rear derailleur
My findings of about 250km per application very closely match what ZFC found (page 32 of the PDF, if you're interested).
Again: I ride mostly off-road in the Highlands, on combinations of forest/estate gravel roads and singletrack. There's mud, cow poo, puddles and dust. I ride a 40T 1X chainring, 11-50 Sunrace cassette and a Shimano GRX rear mech with a Goatlink extender (the 455% gear range means I can still blat sealed sections at 45kph).
It's a finely-tuned setup that's sensitive to the smallest tweak, and any decrease in shift performance is immediately noticeable. Despite prolonged periods without re-lubing, things kept humming along nicely.
Oil be damned
My chain, cassette and chainring have remained amazingly clean. Cleaner than they'd look after a single ride with a normal oil-based lube, that's for sure. For those using indoor trainers, I'm confident Synergetic lube is going to be your cleanest option – if there's no dirt to pick up, it's going to stay clean almost indefinitely.
This is great news for people lumping bikes in and out of cars, as there's literally no oil to get on interiors or clothing.
On and on
I imagine I'll reapply after a couple more rides – that would make for four applications over 1,000km of muddy, dusty and wet off-road riding. Each application of 116 drips weighs about 1g, so you're looking at around 50 applications per £32 bottle – in my case, that's likely more than 12,000km.
Silca says a bottle is good for 12,000 miles (around 19,300km). It seems a fair bet you could get that if you're sticking to roads.
So it goes on easy, there's no setup time so you can do it immediately before or even during a ride, and it stays really clean. But what about the elephant in the room of all lubes – the effect on component wear?
Stretching it
A primer: running a £20 chain beyond 0.5% wear for even a short period will ruin your far more expensive cassette. Then, when you finally fit a new chain, it will skip over the worn smallest sprockets under load, which is most alarming and potentially dangerous. This is why you should own a chain checker and use it often... when the 0.5% side drops into the chain, replace and smile – you've just saved yourself a bunch.
> Which chainset is right for you? Should you choose a standard, a compact or something else?
I'd normally expect a chain to last about 2000km of gravel (up here), so I should be approaching halfway worn out: but after 800km, the wear is unmeasurable using digital calipers. Clearly, extending the life of your drivetrain is only going to save you money down the line, and the more expensive your components, the more money you'll save.
For example, the cost of running an Ultegra groupset on the road for 10,000km is around £150 with the Silca lube, says ZFC's report, while the average for the five worst lubes tested was £400 per 10,000km. The purchase prices of the lubes are factored in, too.
Drip Advisor
The compelling argument for Silca Synergetic is longterm, then: yes it's easy to apply, lasts ages and keeps things clean, but the real benefit is the protection it gives your components. Even if those components, like mine, live in Scotland. The longer you use it, the more you offset that £32 price, and happily it lasts really well.
The obvious comparison is with Silca's own Super Secret Chain Lube – also £32 – but Synergetic is a lot cleaner and easier to apply. Really the only valid comparisons performance-wise are immersive lubes, but they are such a faff that most people will ignore them.
Based on my experience over 800km of mostly off-road riding, Silca Synergetic can save you enough money – over time – that it's functionally cheaper than the 'cheap' options.
It's extremely effective, very easy to live with, and will keep your bike out of the shop and rolling in those hills where it belongs.
Verdict
Truly exceptional, clean and quiet lube that could save you far more than it costs
Make and model: Silca Synergetic Drip Lube
Tell us what the product is for and who it's aimed at. What do the manufacturers say about it? How does that compare to your own feelings about it?
It's for riders who want easy maintenenace, a clean drivetrain and to save lots of money in worn parts.
Silca says: "The Silca Synergetic Wet Lube is for riders who want to experience the lower friction, increased lifespan, and silence the latest lubricant technology delivers, but without the hassle of deep cleaning, drying and waxing chains."
Tell us some more about the technical aspects of the product?
2oz Squeeze bottle with 18ga. Luer Lock Precision Applicator Tip
12,000+ miles of lubricant per bottle
Ultra-high wearing, ultra-quiet, ultra waterproof wet lube
For best results apply to clean/dry chain. For good results may apply to new factory lubed chain and will fully displace the factory lube within 4-5 applications
MSRP: $25 / 2oz bottle
Made in USA
Limited Warranty
Rate the product for quality of construction:
9/10
The design of the bottle is great, easy to apply.
Rate the product for performance:
10/10
Staying clean and quiet for that long and still working? Exceptional.
Rate the product for durability:
10/10
Lasting 250km+ in Scottish off-road conditions is amazing.
Rate the product for value:
8/10
Factoring in the total cost of running, Synergetic is provably the best-value lube on the market.
Tell us how the product performed overall when used for its designed purpose
Cannot fault it. Fabulous.
Tell us what you particularly liked about the product
Ease of appplication.
Tell us what you particularly disliked about the product
Nothing.
How does the price compare to that of similar products in the market, including ones recently tested on road.cc?
It's expensive per millilitre, but an excellent price per mile. One bottle can last over 10,000 miles, and genuinely extend the life of some far more expensive components as it does it.
Did you enjoy using the product? Yes
Would you consider buying the product? Yes
Would you recommend the product to a friend? Yes
Use this box to explain your overall score
There is no other score that would do the product justice. On almost every point, Synergetic is exceptional.
Age: 47 Height: 183cm Weight: 77kg
I usually ride: Sonder Camino Gravelaxe My best bike is: Nah bro that's it
I've been riding for: Over 20 years I ride: A few times a week I would class myself as: Expert
I regularly do the following types of riding: cyclo cross, general fitness riding, mtb, G-R-A-V-E-L
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41 comments
I'm on my first application of Synergetic. I've only done about 150km so far but it's definitely quietened the drivetrain noise. I bought it off the back of ZFCs recommendation (that site is well worth a visit) as I'd tried waxing but it was just too time consuming amd messy.
If you buy this, remember to shake the bottle vigourously before application, the lube should turn black when it's been shaken enough.
Well it's certainly not cheap but I can see the logic of the economic arguments presented. Whilst I agree with the idea that the lube needs to be on the inside of the rollers and not on the out side of the chain in practice, if you ride throught the winter on salted and gritted roads the outside of the chain needs protection as well otherwise it rusts. The lubing procedure here is pretty much what I do, i.e. one drop per roller, spin the chain backwards a few times and wipe off excess lube. But in winter I do need to wipe the outside of the chain with an oily rag to prevent rust. I use and get good results with Muck Off Wet Lube which seems to last a long time between applications. I recently replaced the rear drive chain on our tandem with 5600 km on it without the need for a new cassette. This bike gets ridden several times a week for leisure and commuting (and touring) come rain, snow or whatever. Bearing in mind the extra load on a tandem's rear chain I think this is very impressive (it certainly impressed me). I feel I must give a shoutout to Shimano's HG54 chain here. I stopped fitting Shimano chains back in the late 80s when they started supplying them with their single use connecting rivet. I had always favoured Sedisport (now SRAM) chains anyway. However when I needed to replace the chain on our tandem the HG54 was the only one I could find at the time that had 116 links. Needless to say I have replaced it with another one.
Disagree re coating the outside of the chain for 'protection'. It doesn't need protecting. It's never going to rust to the point it is structurally weakened. And if you don't like the look of rust spots, then wipe them off with a clean rag. If you're coating your chain enough to prevent rust, there's also 100% of its surface (and then the surface of your cassette) that will now be a magnet for the very grit you speak of, as well as mud and other stuff, to make a lovely grinding paste. You want that totally off your drivetrain. There is a brand that will sell you a special light to tell you you've done a great job slathering the outside of your chain in their lube. That's peak chain lube industrial complex BS right there.
I've no doubt the reviewer is greatly impressed by this stuff and it may indeed be the best. But excuse me if I say I've heard all this before, many times.
We've had any number of miracle lubes over the last fifty years. Some were the product of the space race, some were derived from the stuff that kept oil rigs functioning. A few were liquid Teflon whilst others were from Australia, as if that were a recommendation. One was so secret they wouldn't release the formula for Christ's sake.
But, apart from the ever escalating prices, they all have one thing in common, they have disappeared into the crowd, merged into anonymity to be replaced by the next wonder gloop. If it's still top-of-the-pops in a couple of year's time I'll try to wangle a bottle for a Christmas present.
Critical differences:
1. no-one was doing any *actual scientific testing in controlled conditions* until now. Did you read the ZFC report?
2. all the lubes were basically the same thing - a variation on car engine oil, repackaged. Most 'bike' lubes still are, apparently. Because the guy at ZFC keeps being asked by them to test their lubes as bike-specific because they can then sell 50ml for the same price as 5L.
This is my Drivetrain after 800km. The wear is undetectable, with either a Park CC-3.2 or digital calipers.
It works. But hey, don't take my word for it, I've only ridden it for 800km 😀
Hi
what brand and grade of engine oil do you use?
Whatever my mechanic puts in - I have no idea
Seriously though - the industry insiders I've heard talk on the topic agree that most bike lubes are simply repackaged automotive or industrial products - cycling is such a tiny % of the global lubricant market, there are very few people developing truly dedicated products. Something designed to slosh around inside a closed 200-degree engine is not going to be optimised to lubricate a 0-30-degree C external chain.
Yeah. but the one thing you forget is that the internals of an engine isnt constantly exposed to the elements. Bike chains are so they will contain more aditives or chemicals that are more weather resistant and less of a dirt magnet and that might be where the over the top pricing comes in - But youre not wrong. Im sure all the lubes start off as motor oil that then has a lot of extras mixed in to thin them out and make them more weather resistant etc etc
If you put straight engine oil on your drivetrain, Id assume that you'll be going through a lot more of it either because it becomes a sticky black gunky mess, caked with dirt quicker so you'll have to clean more regularly or it washes away in the rain and loses its lubricity and anti-corrosive elements that keep things from rusting.
Motorcycle chain oil would be a more fitting option
You just described most bike lubes on the market now
Maybe you need to switch to wax based lubes then.
You mean I'm not supposed to be cycling when it's below zero or above 30? I've been doing it wrong...
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