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Compact vs Standard Ratios

Opinions/advice please

Am planning my perfect bike this year (yeah, right) and cannot decide between standard or compact chainset.

I don't think I'm fit enough yet to fully embrace a 'standard' set up, but from what I can work out, I wouldn't be losing much if I went from my current compact (50-34 11-28) to a standard (53-39 13-29) - I know I'd lose a bit of flat out speed, but gravity tends to push me faster than my legs downhill anyways...

Cheers
Lul

If you're new please join in and if you have questions pop them below and the forum regulars will answer as best we can.

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14 comments

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CproT | 12 years ago
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Today I came across a nice app called Bike Gear Calculator, www.BikeGearCalculator.com I had the same dilemma to get compact or not. this gear calculator gave me the answers I needed. Switching to compact now. As it turned out there are so many things to take into consideration.
http://itunes.apple.com/app/bike-gear-calculator/id505985340?ls=1&mt=8

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joemmo | 12 years ago
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andy - it really sounds like you want a standard chainset for aesthetic reasons but are trying to mitigate it's unsuitability for you by adding bigger sprockets or worrying about crank lengths. I reckon you should just get a compact with the right length arms for your legs and stop fretting.

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andylul replied to joemmo | 12 years ago
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joemmo wrote:

andy - it really sounds like you want a standard chainset for aesthetic reasons but are trying to mitigate it's unsuitability for you by adding bigger sprockets or worrying about crank lengths. I reckon you should just get a compact with the right length arms for your legs and stop fretting.

If I was worried about aesthetics, I'd never get on my bike (etc. etc.)  1

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Simon E replied to andylul | 12 years ago
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joemmo wrote:

andy - it really sounds like you want a standard chainset for aesthetic reasons but are trying to mitigate it's unsuitability for you by adding bigger sprockets or worrying about crank lengths. I reckon you should just get a compact with the right length arms for your legs and stop fretting.

[/quote]
I agree.

You don't even need a spare wheel, swapping cassettes is a piece of cake. But I'd only suggest doing that if you're racing, and even then a close ratio block isn't a necessity, even on flat time trials. The rest of the time use the standard cassette with compact chainset. If you're spinning out with 50x11 then you should contact Team Sky with your CV.

All the online info I've read on crank length (and so far that's a fair bit) suggests that it's not a big deal. Excessively long cranks with short legs or the reverse wouldn't be ideal but most average height people can get on with 170~175mm crank arms.

To quote the greatest cyclist of them all:

"Don't buy upgrades, ride up grades."

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andylul | 12 years ago
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If I was worried about club riders deriding me, I'd never get on my bike...

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arrieredupeleton replied to andylul | 12 years ago
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andylul wrote:

If I was worried about club riders deriding me, I'd never get on my bike...

Same here. I love my £16 aldi winter jersey and proudly wave to passing Rapha and Assos clad miseries on a regular basis.

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arrieredupeleton | 12 years ago
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The effects of crank arms length are not clear in terms of efficiency. I think it comes down to personal preference to be honest.

If you want a standard chainset for image rather than practicality, you'll need a straight through 11-23 block. Prepare for the club riders to snigger and mock you if not  3

Having two separate wheels and cassettes is a good option but just be aware of chain length - particularly over-stressing a chain on 53-29. It'll also have to be taught enough for 39-11 - even if that's bad form in terms of crossing the chain, it'll need to cope.

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andylul | 12 years ago
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Thanks for all the feedback, guys

If I do plump for a standard, it'll prolly be a Campag Centaur (some places like Onix and Ribble offer a standard 53-39/13-29 combo) on my 'best bike' and will save the compact 105 for mucky days.

Also thought it might be possible, on the same front chainring, to have a 'flat' or 'climbing' option - having one wheel with a 11-25 and the other a 13-29...

Does anyone know what effect crank arm length has on climbing ability?

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acwaite | 12 years ago
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I had the same problem last year, so in the end I bought 2 bikes, 1 with 53/39 chainset for weekend riding and a bike with the compact 50/34 chainset on the cyclescheme for comuting. I much prefer the compact set-up as I am no pro-cyclist and I am not getting any younger. I get up the hills much better on the compact chainset.

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joemmo | 12 years ago
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also consider that with a compact you can always put a 52 / 39 chainring combo if you choose to later, you can't put smaller than a 38 on a standard.

I think it's easy to over estimate the size of large chainring you need. Just before my left hand lever broke and I went to a single chainring I had a 48/36 12-27 compact setup which had more than adequate top and bottom end for most riding and a much less awkward jump between chainrings. I'm now just using the 36 and it's fine for the commute and cxing, only tend to spin out over 25mph.

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robert.brady | 12 years ago
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Basically, if you'd need a 29 on the back with a standard double; go with a compact.

Rob

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robert.brady | 12 years ago
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I'm sure someone on here pointed out that a 50-34 compact with an 11-23 cassette offered a higher top gear and lower bottom gear than 53-39 and 12-25 whilst keeping (with campag 11 speed, I think) the same jumps between gears on the cassette.

I'm normally dead against compacts purely from an aesthetics point of view (vain, I know), but it's given me food for thought.

Rob

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Simon E | 12 years ago
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Difference between the compact's 50 teeth and a standard 52 or 53T big ring is minimal and 50x11 is a pretty high gear. Unless you're a big gear rouleur I'd stick with the compact and spend the money on upgrading your tyres or even wheels - you're likely to feel the benefit there more than anywhere else on the bike.

Here's a graph of my triple 52/42/30 (solid) against compact 50/34 (dashed) with a 12-25 9 speed cassette. 39T ring is only slightly lower than 42T shown. Ratios are based on Sheldon's calculator, linked above.

If you were set on the bigger chainrings you could look at Apex-style wide range cassette. New 10 speed Tiagra has 12-28 and 12-30, though you should check your rear mech has adequate capacity.

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netclectic | 12 years ago
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I have the same dilemma at the moment. The key I think is whether you believe you can push the 39-29 up the steepest hill you are likely to encounter on a typical ride.

Try a gear calculator, e.g. http://sheldonbrown.com/gears/ - to get an idea of the difference between your different options at various cadences.

Cheers!

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