- News
- Reviews
- Bikes
- Accessories
- Accessories - misc
- Computer mounts
- Bags
- Bar ends
- Bike bags & cases
- Bottle cages
- Bottles
- Cameras
- Car racks
- Child seats
- Computers
- Glasses
- GPS units
- Helmets
- Lights - front
- Lights - rear
- Lights - sets
- Locks
- Mirrors
- Mudguards
- Racks
- Pumps & CO2 inflators
- Puncture kits
- Reflectives
- Smart watches
- Stands and racks
- Trailers
- Clothing
- Components
- Bar tape & grips
- Bottom brackets
- Brake & gear cables
- Brake & STI levers
- Brake pads & spares
- Brakes
- Cassettes & freewheels
- Chains
- Chainsets & chainrings
- Derailleurs - front
- Derailleurs - rear
- Forks
- Gear levers & shifters
- Groupsets
- Handlebars & extensions
- Headsets
- Hubs
- Inner tubes
- Pedals
- Quick releases & skewers
- Saddles
- Seatposts
- Stems
- Wheels
- Tyres
- Health, fitness and nutrition
- Tools and workshop
- Miscellaneous
- Tubeless valves
- Buyers Guides
- Features
- Forum
- Recommends
- Podcast
forum
Removing rear wheel (road/stirrup brakes and full chaincase)
This might be the wrong crowd 
but does anyone have any tips on removing the rear wheel from a bike which has road & stirrup brakes, a full chaincase, and a Sturmey Archer three speed hub gears? Need to patch a hole in the tube, and have no experience of doing that without taking the wheel off...
If you're new please join in and if you have questions pop them below and the forum regulars will answer as best we can.
Latest Forum Topics
Latest Comments
- chrisonabike 0 sec ago
Didn't he already do so when a very important man already breaking the law drove his car into him, then won in court?
- belugabob 4 min 10 sec ago
I'm loving this thread - no road tax, but lots of Roman taxonomy....
- David9694 4 min 54 sec ago
It's really hard to tell fact from fiction with these stories - the people trying to put forward hardship examples all turn out to be nicely off,...
- wtjs 16 min 13 sec ago
I've only ever snapped up Shimano components Subtle and subliminal 'pasta cranks' propaganda from HP!
- wtjs 20 min 34 sec ago
I wonder if Cheshire police officers are of the opinion that the driver is entitled to ram a cyclist off the road if he 'takes the lane' in those...
- hawkinspeter 53 min 5 sec ago
If they're trying to nick you for paying with a cancelled cheque, then they're probably the time police thinking that you're a time traveller.
- Velophaart_95 2 hours 24 min ago
Not many normal everyday bikes there, for normal riders...... No steel or titanium either.
- David9694 3 hours 32 min ago
Driver warned to take his meds after 'spectacular crash'...
- S.E. 4 hours 2 min ago
But limiting high gear wouldn't really solve all the crashes in sprints, narrow roads, etc. Someone needs to do serious studies and statistics on...
Add new comment
35 comments
Quick update: all sorted. Removed the tube and just hung it out, pumped it up to find the hole, marked with chalk, did the thing with a traditional puncture repair kit... Found a thorn in the tyre which I removed. The only hiccup was that there's so little clearance between the rim and the brake pads on a rod and stirrup system that I had to take one pad off so I could wiggle the last bit of tube back in.
Took me twenty minutes, and that included shuffling the bikes in the shed so I could get this bike out!
Yeah but will it still be up tomorrow?
Oh don't say that!
Hoping to read success on this after the w/e.
We didn't go out for a ride yesterday (too darned hot), but rode it around the back garden for a bit and the tyres are still inflated this morning.
I just wanted to say thank you to everyone who's posted on here to help with my problem.
I'll let you know after the weekend if the bike is up and running
Looking forward to reports about how you've managed to bodge tubeless / carbon fork / 105 / wireless shifting on there.
Does your wife have the login, as I'm not sure you will survive based on your posts in here !!
I've done a few Dutch bikes in my time and it is indeed a nightmare to remove - needs taking off the cover, undoing the gears, unstrapping the hub brake etc. Probably a nice hour off and on.
The theory is that if you can patch - patch. If you can locate the puncture, move it to the bottom, pop off a bit of the tyre, wrestle out the inner tube, patch and pray.
I have heard of such things as "sausage" tubes, inner tubes that are not circular.
Luckily my rohloff is relatively easy to pop off, external clip box helps. Gone tubeless too, thank goodness. Could all start to get more difficult once I fit a proper mudguard.
Search for "non circular bicycle inner tube" a few pop up.
Easier carry round spare at least.
If you're just patching a flat, then defo try and do it without removing the wheel. Working on the non-chain side for better access. Once the tube is out, you do get quite good access to it by sliding it down towards the hub.
It's good to practise this at home in case it happens to you when you're out on a long ride. Far quicker and less risky than getting the wheel out!
Is it a woods valve? These are a pain as you have to take the valve core out to get the stem through the hole in the rim. Plus the rubber sleeve type tend to leak when they start to perish. So if you struggle to find the hole in the tube, it could be the valve that's gone.
Yep - that's deffo the standard way:
https://bicycledutch.wordpress.com/2016/03/15/dutch-style-puncture-repair/
... or rather it is for those who don't just push their bike to the nearest bike shop / station with cycle repair facilities - shouldn't be far:
https://bicycledutch.wordpress.com/2017/11/28/a-ride-from-schijndel-to-s...
Nope - 'standard' schraeder valve. The bike is a 1980s Raleigh Superbe that my wife rescued from a skip. Sturmey Archer three speed hub gears which still work like magic. Someone was going to just send it to landfill!
Those bikes were built to last forever, nice save!
I did a similar thing with an old Triumph Palm Beach that had been tossed in a skip. I refurbished it and used it for several years for knocking about town on. Only really stopped using it because the brakes were so bad and getting tyres and rims for 27 1/4 wheels is not easy!
The wheels on this one are 26 and 3/8 inches, it appears (I'm guessing that'll be fun trying to source new tyres eventually...)
Tyres are not uncommon, still used by dutch style bikes look for 650a or the etrto number 37-590, even sold by Decathlon.
Oh, is that 650A? Didn't realise: thank you.
Maybe see if you can contact the person on this channel for tips.
Thanks - I've already watched a few of their videos.
They have a thirty minute video on 'the history of the Raleigh Superbe' over a twenty odd year period: incredibly detailed.
Apologies if you've been there already but I thought the canonical way (for minor repairs) was not to bother, but just get the tube out of the tyre:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=k8zIxcHOPD4
(I do note it looks suspiciously easy in that video though...)
I guess it's "more expense" but I'd like to see more of something like the Workcycles "escape hatch". Still a "major mechanical" compared to a quick release but easier than the full fandango to remove the wheel completely.
https://vimeo.com/241003190
(Note that you have to download the video to watch it).
Of course it's a bit of a computerised steam hammer to undo several nuts but the single-side axle would circumvent all these issues...
https://www.cyclinguk.org/sites/default/files/document/migrated/publicat...
Some sleight of hand in that video ... at about 1:30 the tyre is magicked itself off the wheel for inspection!
If possible I prefer to locate the source of the puncture in the tyre first, then only expose the affected part of the inner tube, and dispense with the water bath which I never can seem to find in my saddle bag.
Does that mean your saddle bag would have to be a Klein bag?
No, but it's still a speedy bike, it goes at quite a Cantor and leaves others for dust. Although I can never seem to straighten out all the bends in the handlebars.
I'd thought that trying to patch the tube without removing it would be too much faff, but having taken the front wheel off to repair that tube... <shakes head> I have never experienced anything like that horror... Anything must be better than trying to take the back wheel off.
Running tank-heavy energy-sapping slippy-at-an-angle Schwalbe Marathon Plus tyres suddenly makes sense when you've got that facing you. I've used them a fair bit and they're actually fine (except for wet cornering quibbles) for this kind of application.
Having said that unless you're a rock climber you'll want to get training on those finger-gyms for the one time every couple of years when you do pick up a puncture. And carry the heaviest tyre levers you can find. (The "squeeze the tyre into the central groove and work it round" trick is all well and good but sod's law says you'll be doing this in sleet with frozen fingers. And in the dark - everyone knows that tyres are negatively photosensitive).
I have marathon plus on my main bikes for the bulletproof protection that they offer but the tyres on this bike (which my wife rides) looked almost brand new (and it's an obscure wheel size).
i usually have to have a stiff drink before I approach having to remove marathons, but removing the tyres on this one felt like pulling off a sock! The tyre was so bendy... Which I imagine is why it gave little resistance to the thorn that punctured it.
Sounds like a chapter from richard's bicycle book. Might be worth checking the library for an older copy.
Thanks, hirsute. I don't have the Bicycle Book, only his (much later) City Cycling.
(and believe me that getting just the front wheel off, which involves disassembling the brakes, took two hours, a pentacle, and the sacrifice of an unwilling goat...).
(my wife hit some hedge cuttings and got a double flat).
Found a copy of the new bike book (maybe too new !)
Think you will have to remove this chaincase somehow though.
Pages