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Are 105 Hydro Brakes Disappointing?

Is it just me or are 105 hydro brakes not really upto much? I’m certainly not impressed with mine, especially when compared to my other bike with what I believe are the lower end sram apex hydros, which are twice as powerful, don’t ever squeal, done twice the mileage, seen all weathers and have had no maintenance at all.. By contrast my pampered 105 system has seen no bad weather, been fully bled, had new ceramic pads and ultegra rotors fitted and they still feel like cane operated single piston brakes.. I’m thinking of selling it because of this inferior characteristic..it makes me think that shimano groupsets are all marketing bluster… Any thoughts anyone?

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26 comments

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huntswheelers | 1 year ago
2 likes

For those rotors you need resin pads.... if you want mixed pads or different pads to Resin then get some other rotors.... When customers come with similar issues, I pop them on Prime rotors from Wiggle and semi metallic pads.. never had any complaints... and...always Shimano disc brakes.... as for Sram... they have other issues...lol

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Cristox replied to huntswheelers | 1 year ago
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huntswheelers wrote:

For those rotors you need resin pads.... if you want mixed pads or different pads to Resin then get some other rotors...

This is complete nonsense. The Ultegra rotors are fine with metallic and resin pads.

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hawkinspeter replied to Cristox | 1 year ago
3 likes

Cristox wrote:
huntswheelers wrote:

For those rotors you need resin pads.... if you want mixed pads or different pads to Resin then get some other rotors...

This is complete nonsense. The Ultegra rotors are fine with metallic and resin pads.

It's the higher end rotors (including Ultegra) that are rated for use with metallic and resin pads. The cheaper ones which presumably use softer alloys are specified for resin pads only as otherwise the rotors would wear too quickly and fail quicker than a hollow-bonded crank.

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Steve K replied to hawkinspeter | 1 year ago
3 likes

hawkinspeter wrote:

It's the higher end rotors (including Ultegra) that are rated for use with metallic and resin pads. The cheaper ones which presumably use softer alloys are specified for resin pads only as otherwise the rotors would wear too quickly and fail quicker than a hollow-bonded crank.

High end rotors - good

High end cranks - bad.

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Jimmy Ray Will | 1 year ago
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As other comments, my first thought is why do you have the ceramic pads? 

 

 

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Secret_squirrel | 1 year ago
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You dont say which version of 105 you are running.

I ran both the mk 1 105 and Ultegra  (RS505 and RS685) and if anything the 105 spec ones were better.   Things have moved slightly with the 7000/8000 ranges but IMO dont really change again until GRX and 12speed 105 and Ultregra which are a quantum leap forward in braking from the hoods.

My GRX's have started squealing but I think thats the aftermarket pads.

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Willdb replied to Secret_squirrel | 1 year ago
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Secret_squirrel wrote:

You dont say which version of 105 you are running.

I ran both the mk 1 105 and Ultegra  (RS505 and RS685) and if anything the 105 spec ones were better.   Things have moved slightly with the 7000/8000 ranges but IMO dont really change again until GRX and 12speed 105 and Ultregra which are a quantum leap forward in braking from the hoods.

My GRX's have started squealing but I think thats the aftermarket pads.

Im running R7020..  They've never been fantastic, but I think perhaps the ceramic pads aren't helping..

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AlsoSomniloquism | 1 year ago
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I've moved to 105 7000 groupset on a bike to replace a stolen one which had Ultegra, and I do feel braking doesn't feel as sharp as the old one. However I had the icetech rotors on those as well where these just come with the standard multi holed ones. I've not felt like I won't stop, just doesn't seem as sharp early on in the pull as the old ones. 

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Steve K | 1 year ago
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Which Ribble bike do you have, BTW?

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Willdb replied to Steve K | 1 year ago
1 like

Steve K wrote:

Which Ribble bike do you have, BTW?

It's a carbon SL Disc 

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TheBillder | 1 year ago
3 likes
WILLDB wrote:

... they still feel like cane operated single piston brakes

That's just it, you need to give these a damn good thrashing daily to teach them a lesson. Nanny always did for me, and it never did me any harm though it did make me late for work today.

(apologies to the late great Humphrey Littleton for theft of joke).

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IanMSpencer | 1 year ago
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I've run Ultegra road (140mm rotor) for about 5 years (6800 series IIRC), and GRX (160 rotor) for a year or so (GRX 600 changers, GRX400 calipers). They are all similar. The Ultegra lacks a bit of a feel which I believe they've resolved by adopting the GRX Wave design (whatever that is).

I've generally run Shimano resin pads, but in the lockdown shortages I've got some V-Tech (Who?) ceramic off Amazon and they are fine. I prefer the bite of the GRX which are an updated design, and the grips are better than the Ultegra, but aside from that all good. Done some serious gravel with the GRX set-up and they were fine, not sure what matey who cooked his brakes and turned the rotor purple was using on the same ride. Used to ride the Ultegra through winter with no issues aside from the unavoidable squealing of wet rotors after doing some miles between stops, but they'd soon clean up during a stop.

Not used recent SRAM ones, but back in the day, used to replace low end SRAM MTB hydraulic with low end Shimano because the design was so poor, a number of customers complaining of brakes rubbing or even locking up when heating up. No idea what their roadie offerings are like aside from a mate who runs SRAM Red has been driven bonkers by his.

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mark1a | 1 year ago
1 like

My winter bike has 105 hydraulic disc and performance-wise they're indistinguishable from the bikes I have running Ultegra - i.e. very good. I'm a heavier rider (88kg) and there's a lot of hill descents locally; I have had no cause for complaint regarding performance.

I use resin pads, better for more instant response, they're quieter in my opinion too. They possibly wear out quicker than sintered/metallic, but then they wear more than the disc, and they're cheaper than discs.

I would possibly question the ceramic pads, only for the fact that I have no real world experience of them on a bicycle, however when ceramic brakes are used in high performance automotive applications, they are known for having reduced "bite" performance until they are warmed up, and then better performance when up to temperature. Also, have you checked the pads for glazing or contamination perhaps?

 

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Willdb replied to mark1a | 1 year ago
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I think you maybe right.. I think if the ceramic pads are cool then the bite will be reduced.. Would you know if R8070 pads fit R7020 callipers?

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mark1a replied to Willdb | 1 year ago
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They should both be Shimano L type, yes. 

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IanMSpencer replied to Willdb | 1 year ago
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Shimano have only one fit of "road" pads, so they are all interchangeable, including with GRX, though they have made several variants of that fit, their coding covers the brake material and whether they are finned, but as these codes are intermixed with their MTB and hybrid series it is quite baffling.

You don't need to have finned just because that's what was delivered either, and unless you regularly ride somewhere needing a lot of steep braking descents, the fins aren't going to do anything for you. 

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mark1a replied to IanMSpencer | 1 year ago
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Although I have one road bike with R785 calipers and takes the J type rather than L type pad. 

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IanMSpencer replied to mark1a | 1 year ago
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Good point. I think the R785 was the Mk1 attempt at road bikes and they soon came up with the revised variant where they updated pad design.  Since then the road bike pads have diverged to their own variant which has remained consistent. When I did repairs, tracking pads was a nightmare and given you could see there was little functional difference, it was really annoying. Nearly as bad as gear hangers - another one with ridiculously pointless variation.

Quite a useful chart here:

https://shimanobikes-nz.prontoavenue.biz/ts1570079501/attachments/Page/2...

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Steve K | 1 year ago
1 like

I'm very happy with mine (though I've not used any other disc brakes to compare them with).  Over 10,000km done, a bit of squealing in the wet sometimes, but no maintenance other that one new set of pads.

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Sriracha | 1 year ago
1 like

My 105 hydraulic brakes have been pure bliss. No squeal, no maintenance in three years beyond replacement pads. They do exactly what I expect and were a revelation after my previous bike's cantilevers. Can't fault them. Shimano resin pads.

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mike the bike replied to Sriracha | 1 year ago
1 like

Sriracha wrote:

My 105 hydraulic brakes have been pure bliss. No squeal, no maintenance in three years beyond replacement pads. They do exactly what I expect and were a revelation after my previous bike's cantilevers. Can't fault them. Shimano resin pads.

Me too.  I've had 'em all: SRAM, Tektro, Hope, Campag, RST and others I've forgotten but Shimano's 105, with 160mm on the front, is as good as the best.  I think the OP may have a problem of some kind, disc contamination perhaps?

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Willdb replied to mike the bike | 1 year ago
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Discs and pads are new... I think maybe the ceramic pads could be the issue?

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Rendel Harris | 1 year ago
2 likes

Sorry if it sounds obvious but are you sure ceramic pads are suitable for the rotors? All my Shimano rotors have "resin pads only" on them.

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Wingguy replied to Rendel Harris | 1 year ago
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Those are the cheapy cheapy rotors. Anything 6x series or above is fine for any compound (like the sintered pads that Shimano themselves make). Equivalent series rotors to 105 or Tiagra will be fine, though sometimes brands will cheap out and spec a bottom end resin only rotor as OE on an otherwise 105 spec bike.

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Willdb replied to Rendel Harris | 1 year ago
1 like

I'll check that..my rotors are rt800 icetech... I'm ordering some resin regardless 

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Wingguy replied to Willdb | 1 year ago
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Any Ice-Tech rotors are fine for sintered or ceramic pads. All the resin only ones are much cheaper options.

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