- News
- Reviews
- Bikes
- Accessories
- Accessories - misc
- Computer mounts
- Bags
- Bar ends
- Bike bags & cases
- Bottle cages
- Bottles
- Cameras
- Car racks
- Child seats
- Computers
- Glasses
- GPS units
- Helmets
- Lights - front
- Lights - rear
- Lights - sets
- Locks
- Mirrors
- Mudguards
- Racks
- Pumps & CO2 inflators
- Puncture kits
- Reflectives
- Smart watches
- Stands and racks
- Trailers
- Clothing
- Components
- Bar tape & grips
- Bottom brackets
- Brake & gear cables
- Brake & STI levers
- Brake pads & spares
- Brakes
- Cassettes & freewheels
- Chains
- Chainsets & chainrings
- Derailleurs - front
- Derailleurs - rear
- Forks
- Gear levers & shifters
- Groupsets
- Handlebars & extensions
- Headsets
- Hubs
- Inner tubes
- Pedals
- Quick releases & skewers
- Saddles
- Seatposts
- Stems
- Wheels
- Tyres
- Health, fitness and nutrition
- Tools and workshop
- Miscellaneous
- Tubeless valves
- Buyers Guides
- Features
- Forum
- Recommends
- Podcast
Add new comment
5 comments
Internal cables rattling inside the bar or stem?
If you're able to tighten it enough that it seems ok but almost immediately slips it could be that the top cap is bottoming out on the for steerer / bung before fully preloading the bearings. It might be that the steerer tube is fractionally too long and either needs shaving down or a 2mm spacer adding. Or possibly the bung has slipped upwards on the first occasion and is now preventing proper preload if it's the type that has a lip that rests on the top of the steerer tube.
That said, if you're able to preload it fully and still turn the topcap bolt further it's probably more likely that the bung is not tight enough inside the steerer and by turning the topcap bolt further you're just dragging it up the steerer tube.
The wedges inside the headset are notoriously fiddly to torque correctly, and once they've started slipping they tend not to want to tighten as they shave material off the interior of the tube..
My starting point would be to remove, clean with alcohol and then apply a small amount of carbon grip, then re-tighten to spec. torque, no tighter.
However, frames transmit noise from all over and noise apparently from the headset can be from just about anywhere.
I'd guess the bung is slipping up inside the steerer causing the bearing preload to be reduced. Check the manufacturers specs for the torque setting on the bung - I've seen carbon steerers wrecked due to over tightening. And be aware that running a loose headset on a carbon steerer can cause a groove to be worn on the steerer making it unsafe.
Some helpful tips on squeaks & creaks - https://bit.ly/3ynxXkZ