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Wheel recommendations?
I've sung the praises of the value of my Mason x Hunt 650B Adventure Dynamo Disc wheelset, which has been on my bike since I built it in early 2020, over 16000 miles ago, and needed only minor truing, but at the beginning of my LEJoG I noticed cracks around just about every other rear spoke hole. Fortunately they held up for the whole trip, but I obviously need to do something about it before it fails on a ride. I can either rebuild with a new rim on the same hub, or just replace with a new wheel that has a Shimano 11-speed compatible driver.
The current rim is 28 hole, 25 mm internal, 28 mm external. Disc brake only, tubeless compatible. Possibly looking for something with eyelets this time. I'd like to get something that will last at least double that 16000 miles. I run 48 mm tyres.
A little deeper would be okay, not sure about carbon.
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26 comments
I've placed an order with Wheelbuilder. I took their recommendation, and also splurged a little but no big deal. The total was about $625 (£465) including shipping for a handbuilt in California rear wheel.
Wheel Size: 27.5" / 650B
Rear Rim Model: DT GR 531 Disc
Rear Spoke Count: 32H
Rear Axle Type: 142 x 12mm TA
Rear Disc Type: Centerlock Disc
Rear Hub: DT Swiss 350 Classic Center Lock Disc Brake Rear Hub
Rear Hub Color: Black
Drivetrain Type: Shimano/SRAM 11 Road
Points of Engagement: 36T Ratchet
Rear Hub Bearings: Steel
Spoke Type: Double Butted
Spoke Color: Black
Nipple Type: Black Brass
I can buy the same rim in 28 hole for under $100 (£75) if I decide I want to lace one to my front SON hub and have the wheels match.
My two cents:
Definitely worth reaching out to Hunt and seeing what they say - they might offer you a discount on a new wheel, but no harm done if not.
I don't think it's likely to be worth rebuilding the wheel - the hubs aren't anything special, and by the time you've costed for labour and new spokes (likely necessary if the ERD isn't the same) unlikely to be financial viable compared to just buying something new.
My suggestion would be to find a reputable wheel builder and have a chat. Unfortunately whilst I could name several in the UK, I don't know any in the USA but I'm sure if you search more US-oriented forums you'll be able to find some recommendations. Whilst it might be possible to ship from the UK, I agree it's unlikely to be sensible for you. If long term reliability is key, I think handbuilt makes more sense than anything off-the-shelf. And handbuilt wheels tend to use generic, widely stocked components, so when something does eventually break, normally much easier to get fixed.
Thanks. I've contacted wheelbuilder.com . Their website has an overwhelming number of choices, but looks to be good value. They're in California, which is as far as you can get from me in the 48 states, but shipping is less than $20 for an example wheel I put in my cart. I'll see what they suggest. Fortunately I'm not in a hurry. I'm considering having the frame re-repainted as I picked up a massive chip shipping my bike over (and it's not a great paint job anyhow.)
Here's something off the shelf at a very reasonable cost from a company I've heard of. Anything wrong with Mavic? It's fewer spokes than the failed Hunt wheel, though.
https://www.mavic.com/en-us/p/allroad-650b-disc-rr1325?variant=1918
I don't mind paying for handbuilt, but probably won't go with a UK supplier as I'm in the middle of the US. I've just never bought wheels before (other than the Hunts) and don't know which "brand I've heard of" is actually quality.
Good reliable wheels in my experience and the three year warranty shows a good degree of confidence - I should think for someone with your sort of mileage and terrain if you get three years out of a $350 wheelset you'd feel you'd done OK?
I wonder how many of those makes are more race oriented / supply 650B?
Ryde (the old Rigida) rims might be another one to consider. You might benefit from a SON dynohub wheel? Also Pacenti rims.
This guy's site (he does ship to the US) is worth poking around -
E.g. https://thecycleclinic.co.uk/products/copy-of-ryde-andra-321-disc-brake-...
Youll probably want some robust spokes and a 32/32h set-up. Cycle Clinic uses Sapim. I'm guessing you overloaded your Hunts. (I'd be 32/36h in 700c.)
If you have the time, DIY is another good route. Pair with a spoke calculator.
https://www.troubleshooters.com/bicycles/wheelbuilding/index.htm
The front is already a SON hub, hence why I'm looking for either a rear wheel, or buy rims and rebuild. The dyno hub is what made me buy the Hunt wheelset in the first place, as it seemed like a bargain.
I'd definitely prefer at least 32, which is what my Jamis touring bike had. I bought it used, and then put over 18000 miles on it before selling it, and the wheels were still fine. I don't see how I could have overloaded the Hunt rear when my touring load is fairly light and mostly on the front, and I weigh a massive 160 lb / 11 st. 6 lb / 72 kg. Although I'm currently down seven pounds since the tour!
Hunt states they test their wheelsets for over 135 kg / 297 lb per pair on cobbles, "equivalent to riding Paris Roubaix over 5 times with no tarmac sections, only cobbles."
https://us.huntbikewheels.com/blogs/news/89909574-product-lab-testing-th...
3 year guarantee offered - let us know what Hunt come back with.
Every other spoke hole cracking you say - NDS or DS? The other thing I'm thinking, not that I'm any sort of expert, is too much spoke tension on the one side.
It's all (or the vast majority of) the drive side ones.
If you pluck an uncracked DS spoke, what's it feel like?
Looking carefully now, there is maybe one uncracked drive side one. It sounds and feels about the same as the others. I just measured them all with my Unior tensiometer. The spokes are 2.0-1.6-2.0. Using the closest values on the table (1.65), the drive side all measure 80-120 kgf. The non drive side measure 55-75 kgf.
Checking a few random ones on the front, they're pretty close to the rear drive side tensions.
I see no non drive side cracks on the rear. What I do see now is seven cracks on the front, all but one on left side nipples. So I guess I'm rebuilding that front for sure.
I would say definitely don't go down on spoke count from what you had previously.
I would also recommend having a look at Cycleclinic website. Malcolm is incredibly open and informative on pros/ cons of different options when building wheels and which brands of rims/ hubs/ spokes he is willing to use in his builds. Even if shipping from UK makes it not cost effective, it could give you a shopping list to go to a more local builder and get something made to your spec.
Here's a photo of one of the cracks, which I've sent to Hunt. Still awaiting a response.
Yikes! I wouldn't buy another similar wheel from them, even if it was half price or whatever.
Your bike deserves something built properly with a stronger rim with eyelets and brass spokes. Look at how a reputable UK builder like Malcolm at Cycle Clinic specs a dynamo wheelset here (I think it's a Kinlin TL-23) for a very similar price.
Hi not many ever mention jra or just riding along wheels hand built cheap and customisable, yiu cam have aluminium or carbon aswell worth a look ?
I'd highly recommend Scribe, especially if you love a nice, positive sounding freewheel! Brilliant service, great wheels. I'm running alloys on the winter bike, and Carbons on the good bike.
This looks quite good.
https://www.velocityusa.com/product/rims/aero-650b
$200?
How about something stock like a DT Swiss?
https://www.sjscycles.co.uk/rims-tape/28-dt-swiss-g-540-db-275-584-grave...
David at DCR wheels can probably build you a nice replacement, if Hunt don't stump up.
DCR can build you a better replacement!
Better than 16000 miles for £250?
Also, is it worth contacting Hunt? I'm 18 months past their three year warranty period.
A friend of mine binned his Hunts in similar circumstances, then found out that Hunt would have offered a discount on buying a replacement. Not sure if such offers are a regular service, but he regretted his hasty decision.
Yeah, I might do it, but best case I have another wheel that will crack in under 20k miles, right? I suppose there's some value in knowing they'll last at least 1000 miles after noticing a bunch of cracks.
I would definitely reach out to Hunt. They have great customer service and are really easy to deal with in my experience. What have you got to lose by sending an email ?