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97 comments
I luckily got an estate car from Wick, so transporting the bike has been super easy!
All boxed up now, I'm staying with my uncle in the London suburbs before flying out on Tuesday.
It's a wrap, except for a one mile ride in the morning to collect my rental car.
1074 miles in 14 days of riding, for an average of 76.7 miles a day. Two rest days. Some of the weather wasn't great, but it's September in Scotland, really there was less bad weather and a lot more sunshine than I expected. And the weather never stopped me, although the north wind did slow me down.
Riding with other Andy for a few days was great, had some good conversations, and suddenly we each had a photographer when needed.
We rode for about an hour today with a young German couple who were doing a good pace, but they're going to the most northerly point, not John o'Groats. They've been cycling all over Britain for about six weeks!
The stretch of A836 from Thurso to Castletown was by far the worst, busiest stretch of road on the whole trip. I would not do that again.
Oh, and the Stagecoach driver just before we got to Wick: you suck, get a different job. You so badly misjudged that pass that you made drivers on the opposite side of the road come to a complete stop to accommodate you. And still passed us too closely.
I'm feeling good, I didn't really suffer except on about a half dozen climbs (The Lecht!) but a few days of recovery will be nice.
Just had a last dinner together with Andy, he has an early train to catch tomorrow. Enjoying another drink (Glengoyne I bought at the Whisky Castle) back at my room in Wick. Sláinte!
Brilliant! What an achievement, doesn't seem like 5 minutes from my armchair that you were picking your way through Somerset.
Did you see these two on your travels, perchance?
https://www.stokesentinel.co.uk/news/stoke-on-trent-news/meet-stokie-nat...
No, I'd probably have remembered that.
Oh OK, you did say you'd seen the northern lights (with the naked eye IIRC).
Well done Andy, sounds like you had a great time, glad you enjoyed it. I've enjoyed reading your posts, it's made me think I could do it myself sometime. Perhaps.
Thank you for taking us on your journey.
Thanks for sharing this amazing trip with the class, I've been living the journey vicariously through your posts, and it's made me wonder whether there's a LEJoG in me one day. One day...
Well done and all the best, safe trip home.
Well ridden sir! Been most enjoyable to follow your progress, safe journey home.
A great trip, and thanks for the travelogue!
I'm still not sure why all your kit was on the front? But having mis-balanced my bike to the rear one to many times at least you won't be wheelying...
'Well done' doesn't really seem to do it justice. Thanks for the daily updates here and on strava. Hope you enjoy the next day or two's rest and have a safe journey home.
Oh, and the Stagecoach driver just before we got to Wick: you suck, get a different job
That sort of driving is a Stagecoach requirement for employment! They know that the Lancashire Constabulary b******s just bin all such reports, and that if they do 'accidentally' KSI a cyclist, they can just say the cyclist 'jumped straight out in front of me; I didn't stand a chance' and have the police blame the cyclist.
https://upride.cc/incident/px12dnu_stagecoach40bus_closepass/
https://upride.cc/incident/px12eez_stagecoach41_closepass/
https://upride.cc/incident/px12dne_stagecoach42bus_closepass/
https://upride.cc/incident/px12dnd_stagecoach42_closepass/
PS Well done! It has been interesting following your progress
Excellent trip, thanks for taking the trouble to share it. Enjoy the rest of your stay.
Well done Andy and thanks for your updates, I've enjoyed reading them.
Also glad that the weather behaved itself in general.
Hace a safe journey home. Cheers.
Nice job! Enjoyed the progress updates. Some good photos here and on your Strava; as someone who rides in a fairly flat area, I particularly liked the regular 'biggest climb' awards 🤣!
All the different weather and a headwind again today. About 87 miles from Inverness to Altnaharra. Other Andy got a head start on me, but I eventually caught up when we stopped for a snack and coffee in a town called Dingwall and/or Pitglassie. The town signs and maps disagree.
As I left Inverness, I was having trouble finding the path to the A9 bridge, but then I found four other cyclists also doing a LEJoG. I was chatting with a woman from Luxembourg, her English was a little better than my French. When they stopped on the bridge to take photos, I went ahead still trying to catch Andy.
The scenery was beautiful again. I did experience my first (only!) fall on the trip when we were cycling on a path parallel to the road, covered in moss and pine needles. We were just questioning whether we should be on the road instead, when I slid off the edge at maybe 8 MPH. No real damage, and we went back to the road as soon as we could.
Our next stop was at The Hub, just before Bonar Bridge. This was a hidden gem, with some really good sandwiches (I had bacon, Brie, and cranberry).
A bit later, the route went right through the parking lot for the Fall of Shin. We walked down a few minutes to the Salmon Leap, and there were a half dozen people down there. There were some small salmon unsuccessfully leaping into the falls, but it was impossible to get a good photo.
About 25 miles before Altnaharra, we had our first really bad, obviously on purpose close pass. We'd both experienced some dumb misjudged passes, but this was malice. I think the car is now parked here at the Altnaharra Hotel, but I'm restraining myself.
Other Andy is staying at a B&B about 8 miles short of Altnaharra so we'll meet up in the morning. Those eight miles were actually some of the best cycling of the trip, so he's got a treat ahead of him.
Those other four cyclists from this morning were at the hotel when I arrived. They're actually a group of six doing LEJoG, traveling with a van and taking turns driving.
Oh, and it turns out this is fairly far north, and the northern lights are barely visible outside! Everyone here has been going out trying to get photos, and I got a couple of decent ones. My wife will be jealous.
Enjoying an ancnoc whisky after my expensive (but very good) dinner at the hotel. Sláinte!
Northern lights! Not this good to the naked eye
"Oh dear, my heavily laden touring bike appears to have fallen over and damaged your wankpanzer. So sorry!"
Are you there yet??
Don't wish your time away!
One more sleep.
I rode all day today from Braemar to Inverness with other Andy, but he's staying at a B&B, not the hostel I'm in.
We got started about 8:40 after a small hostel breakfast, and rode through to Tomintoul, where we stopped for coffee and a sandwich at The Whisky Castle and Highland Market for lunch and coffee. I didn't sample any Whiskies, but I did buy a mini Glengoyne bottle for tonight.
A bit over 86 miles for me today, and over 6000 feet of elevation gain. Yes, that Lecht climb is serious! I probably walked a half mile today. But it's done.
We had all the weather. Some rain, some sleet, strong mostly headwinds all day, but also some hours of beautiful partly cloudy skies. Today was the first day with my legs covered with leg warmers, and I was glad I packed them. It was under 10 °C when we started, and I had my down puffy vest on, but I soon removed it.
We made another brief stop in Grantown-on-Spey where other Andy bought some treats from a bakery, then pushed on with most of the long climbs behind us.
The weather continued to be very variable, but was nothing my layers weren't up to. We made a brief stop at Culloden for a few photos just before Inverness, then headed into town and parted ways at his B&B for tonight.
Still a good day despite the weather, and I'm feeling pretty good. Sláinte!
Oh, and at the top of one of the climbs, whilst taking photos, some tourists (bloody Americans!) forgot to set their parking brake, and suddenly we heard shouting that the car was rolling. It bumped into the car parked in front of it, with minor damage to both.
If the other car hadn't been there, it would have probably rolled through the grass a half mile down the hill!
Great photo (I assume from other Andy!). Good luck for the last couple of legs of your adventure.
The weather today started out beautiful, but windy. I left the hotel before 9, and stopped after 80 minutes and about 17 miles for breakfast at The Wee Coffee Shop in Blairgowrie. It's small, but very nice.
Before my food came, an older gentleman came in and asked to sit with me. His name is Bill, he's 88 years old, and has been retired for over 30 years. We had a nice chat over breakfast, and when I went to the loo he cheekily paid for mine!
An hour later or so I saw a sign for Persie Distillery, so I pulled in. They only do gin and vodka, but were very nice and I sampled a couple of gins. I bought two small bottles, one of which will make it back to a friend in the US.
Carrying on, I really didn't find it hard all the way to the top of Cairnwell Pass, although I did stop to recover a couple of times. Sorry, I mean I stopped to take photos.
Around when I got to the top, it started sleeting and the wind picked up. I put on gloves for the first time on this trip and started the descent. The sleet got worse, but just around the next bend was Tea @ The Shee, which was open, so I stopped in to wait it out with the motorcyclists. And have a beer and crisps.
While I was there, another cyclist pulled in, also conveniently named Andy. He's also doing a LEJoG, but started the day in Edinburgh, so he's done a lot more miles than me today.
After the weather got marginally better, I dug out my down vest because I was chilled, and we descended together into Braemar. We're both staying at the hostel tonight, but reception was closed until 5, so we rode back to town (0.33 miles) and ate together at Farquharsons. We were lucky to get there just as dinner was starting, otherwise we would have been unlikely to get a table.
Sitting now in the nice, warm lounge at the hostel, and enjoying a Cairngorm STAG beer. Great day, despite the weather!
Tomorrow is 82 miles, vs. today's 50ish, and we'll be climbing The Lecht. Per the book, "the start of which is a leading contender for the most challenging mile of cycling you will find between Land's End and John o'Groats."
I hope you go well, as the forecast is for high winds.
Keep safe.
Well, a mostly successful rest day, if walking over seven miles counts as rest. We'll call it "active recovery."
I tried to go to a local bike shop that Google said was open, but the sign on the door said otherwise, so I walked to the fine establishment called Halfords. I've never been to one before. I bought a set of brake pads as I've been on the edge going down some hills with the lever touching the bar.
Then I tried to visit Innis & Gunn Brewery, which Google said was open but (there's a theme here) it wasn't. At least, all the gates were closed. It appears to be strictly a brewery, not a taproom.
I then went to a nearby M&S for some more on-bike snacks (Percy Pigs and shortbread.) Back at the hotel, I lubed my chain for the second time this trip, changed my rear pads, and adjusted the front.
Did some reading, then to Brewdog for pizza and a few pints. Ready for tomorrow, which is 50 miles, but I think it has the biggest climb of the trip approaching Braemar. I'll be keeping an eye out for the King.
Halfords.
They can be very handy for parts!
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